NYC & DC
Start spreadin' the news, I'm leavin' today.
I want to be a part of it.
New York, New York.
These vagabond shoes, are longing to stray.
Right through the very heart of it.
Start spreadin' the news, I'm leavin' today.
I want to be a part of it.
New York, New York.
These vagabond shoes, are longing to stray.
Right through the very heart of it.
Indonesia was on my short list of countries to visit, and in late 2024, an opportunity arose. I planned to visit Sorong in what was once Dutch New Guinea, a place where my father lived in the early 1960s, and to explore the ancestral village of a close friend, Nenik, in East Java. I flew via Singapore to Surabaya, and to my surprise, her entire family was at the airport to greet me. My first lesson: in Indonesia, you don’t travel alone.
While Tanjung Priok, the port of Jakarta, is more prominent, my father’s steam- and motor ships from the Rotterdamse Lloyd also docked in Tanjung Perak, the port of Surabaya. Most Dutch sugar factories were located just south of Surabaya, and I can imagine that this port city, spelled Soerabaia on an old Dutch postcard, was used for the majority of sugar exports. By the 1950s, Surabaya had become part of Indonesia, yet Dutch ships continued to sail their routes.
I spent the first afternoon in my hotel room, trying to sleep off some jet lag. In the evening, I learned a new word: "hitam", which means black. This was in conjunction with my first dish, Bebek Hitam (black duck), featuring fried duck (bebek goreng) in a spicy black spice blend (bumbu hitam pedas), accompanied by lalapan (raw vegetables) and serundeng. The duck was so tender that I even ate the bones. It was a fantastic start to my culinary journey and a remedy for jet lag—at least that’s what I told myself. The price: 33,000 Indonesian rupiah (2 Euros). I drink black coffee so I quickly realised that I had to order Kopi Hitam.
The usual means of transport in many Asian cities: the scooter with a combustion engine.
My first impression the next day was of the breakfast courtyard at the five star Bumi City Resort Hotel. It felt warm, reminiscent of the tropical butterfly greenhouse I remember from Dutch zoos. As a child, the hot and humid greenhouse was my favorite part of the zoo. Now, I was having breakfast in a tropical greenhouse, and I was enjoying every moment of it.
One of my favourite dishes: pecel sayur. Because of the spicy pecel peanut sauce this is not gado-gado, a similar dish but made with a different bumbu kacang or peanut sauce.
Even though it was the rainy season, the weather hardly bothered me; the rain showers were quite brief. In the morning, I wanted to visit the harbor to experience its atmosphere. During my father’s maiden voyage with the steamship Overijsel, he didn’t reach Surabaya, but he did with later ships, the s.s. Tomini and the motor ship Kota Baroe. In 1955, my father signed off with the Rotterdams Lloyd.
Motor ship Kota Baroe leaving Rotterdam. Date unknown.
Liberty ship s.s. Tomini, built in 1943.
It is interesting to note that not all shipping lanes were between Asia and Europe. The Java-China Japan Line (JCJL), founded in 1891, maintained a network of shipping routes connecting Java, China, and Japan. Exports from Nederlands-Indië were finding markets in China and Japan.
The North Quay is open to the public. With a small entrance fee, you can access the second floor of the cruise terminal, which features a food court and views of the harbor. While there wasn't much to see, I specifically wanted to visit the harbour so we could slowly backtrack to the hotel and see the entire city.
The 10 November Museum, located beneath the Heroes Monument, was closed on Monday, so we decided to visit Chinatown and the Roode Brug instead. Surabaya's Chinatown is primarily a hub for Chinese traders, with the main activity consisting of trucks unloading boxes into small warehouses. This Chinatown does not cater to tourists.
The Chinese restaurants in Surabaya China Town are spartan.
It might not be a surprise that the “Roode Brug” gets its name from the distinctive red color of the bridge. During the Dutch colonial era the bridge served as an important transportation link across the Kalimas River.
While I am interested in architecture, there was not enough time to really delve into Dutch colonial architecture and what remains of it.
The Cigar Building (Gedung Tembakau) on Jalan Rajawali in Surabaya.
The distribution of sugar factories in Dutch colonial Nederlands-Indië highlights the importance of Surabaya as a port city and its influence on the current road and railway network in East Java.
Complete list of sugar factories in Java on 11-02-1932.
While visiting the Museum Hidup Polrestabes (Metropolitan Police) in Surabaya, I realized that Indonesians love to take photographs. It seems impossible to have a conversation without ending up posing for a picture together. I even found myself in a photo with the man who exchanged my euros for Indonesian currency—it’s a bit wild. The museum is housed in the old Hoofdkantoor van de Politie from the Dutch colonial period. I posed in front of weapons used in the aftermath of World War II. I immediately recognised the Bren light machine gun.
Detail of a painting in Museum Hidup Polrestabes.
Gebouw van de handelmaatschappij Borsumij aan de Sociëteitsstraat te Soerabaja, ca 1936
If you love architecture, Surabaya has some hidden gems. Dutch architect Cosman Citroen (1881-1935) designed the office for the Borneo Sumatra Maatschappij (Borsumij), which was built in 1934 and completed in 1935 in a modern style influenced by the Nieuwe Zakelijkheid.
Citroen was well known for his Surabaya City Hall (1925). The city hall was build in the Nieuwe Indische Bouwstijl (New Indies Style), early modern (western) architecture (e.g. Rationalism and Art Deco), applied to local architectural elements suitable for the tropics.
Citroen passed away shortly after the Borsumij office building was finished, unaware that just over a decade later, a devastating world war would have occurred and that the Dutch would have relinquished control of Nederlands-Indië.
This is not a real car but a replica of the 1940 LaSalle SB 723 sedan used by Brigadier A.W.S. Mallaby of the British Indian Army. In 1945, he attempted to negotiate a ceasefire between British forces and Indonesian nationalists in the post-war power vacuum. The British forces were tasked with re-establishing Dutch control; however, Mallaby's convoy was attacked in Surabaya near the Roode Brug. A photo taken in 1945 served as a blueprint for the current monument. His death led to the Battle of Surabaya in November 1945, culminating in a large-scale operation on November 10. This day is now commemorated as Hari Pahlawan (Heroes’ Day) in Indonesia.
This fried catfish dish comes from Lamongan Regency, located near Surabaya. It was one of the meals I had been looking forward to before my arrival, so when I spotted fried catfish in a small warung, I couldn't resist. The catfish used is a freshwater variety. Pecel lele is typically served with sambal, steamed or fried tofu, and in my case, a small piece of cooked banana. The cost of this dish is usually very affordable; I paid less than one euro for the fish, vegetables, and white rice.
Indonesian food courts are usually bustling with numerous small restaurants operated by independent entrepreneurs.
By chance, we stumbled upon this little eatery. The number of scooters parked outside quickly led me to believe this was the best spot for cheap and delicious food. The customers were predominantly young. The menu is straightforward: they wok either shrimp (udang), mussels (kerang hijau), cockles (kerang dara), chicken intestines (usus), chicken feet (ceker), or chicken wings (sayap) in the same spicy sauce. You can choose from five levels of spiciness: original, lamis (5 chilis), lower (10 chilis), lincah (15 chilis), or rusak (20 chilis). I opted for a safe choice of 15 chilis. "Rusak" means "damaged," and that sounded a little intimidating. In hindsight, I could have handled the 20 chilis. Yes, I had the mussels with chicken intestines, and it was one of the culinary highlights of my entire journey. The sauce was complex and flavorful. As we walked out, all the chefs clapped and cheered for us.
Most people eat with their hands in Indonesia.
The phrase "Luweh huenak teko cocote tonggomu rek?" translates to "Is it more delicious than your tongue, right?" in English. The place has a strong presence on Instagram and uses playful local crude Bahasa Jawa slang in their advertising. In principle, every Indonesian is bilingual. The official language is Bahasa Indonesia and in addition, each island has its own language.
On the last night before our flight to Sorong, we decided to indulge a little at the bar of the Bumi City Resort and we ordered mocktails. I chose the Mint Rock, made with non-alcoholic rum. It arrived with a small sign that read: "I sat in silence, finding the dark side of myself in every sip of my drink." Don’t we all have a dark side?
“Aku duduk dalam diam. Menemukan sisi gelap diri, dan di tiap sesap minumanku ini. ”
I had a compelling reason to visit Sorong. For as long as I can remember, my parents attended the annual Sorong reunion for Royal Dutch Shell colleagues. When my father was in his late 20s, he worked in Sorong for a couple of years as a crew member on the landing ship, the Kais, which served as a supply ship for the Dutch oil industry. I wanted to visit Sorong while my father is still alive so I could entertain him in his care home with some new stories, hopefully keeping his memory active.
There are no direct flights between Surabaya and Sorong, with a total distance of 2,171 km—roughly the same distance between Amsterdam and Athens. We took a Lion Air flight via Makassar in South-Sulawesi. When flying domestically in Indonesia, about 90 percent of your options are with Lion Air or its subsidiaries. Currently, Lion Air operates 118 aircraft, mostly Boeing 737s. Notoriously, during the 2000s, Lion Air experienced many incidents, some of which were deadly and primarily caused by pilot error. However, in 2016, the airline was removed from the EU blacklist and is now considered safe. Ticket prices are quite affordable, especially given the distance.
Curiously, our plane was painted partially in Boeing's house colors and partially in Lion Air livery. The 737 looked a bit battered, but, jokingly, I considered it safer than the new 737 MAX. Remember Lion Air Flight 610?
Indonesia has many regional dishes, so during our stopover, I had to try sop saudara, a buffalo meat soup. Since we woke up at 3:30 AM to catch the early flight, it was the perfect breakfast. Another famous meat soup is konro, which is a bone soup. I tried konro in Sorong for breakfast a few days later.
In Sorong, we opted for a homestay, primarily because I wanted a local contact to help arrange transport to Klamono, a name my father had suddenly mentioned in his care home. The homestay was located in a lovely residential area that seemed safe, but the owner had installed corrugated iron plates against the mango tree to prevent thieves from climbing and stealing mangoes at night. A mosque and a church were nearby, and during prayer times, both places of worship used speakers to amplify their messages to the believers—the volume was so loud that conversations had to pause.
Krupuk drying in the sun. The girl is the owner's daughter, who showed us the way out of the neighborhood on our first day.
In the early 1960s my father was housed in simple barracks built by the Americans during the world war. It was a very different Sorong.
In Sorong, there is little visible presence of the Free Papua Organization (Indonesian: Organisasi Papua Merdeka, OPM), apart from some graffiti. "Papua Merdeka" literally means "Papua Independent." However, as recently as 2019, government buildings were destroyed in Sorong, resulting in over 31 deaths in the region.
Papua students are calling for a new referendum. When West Papua was transferred to Indonesia in 1963, following an agreement mediated by the United Nations, many Papuans felt it was done against their will. In 1969, Indonesia organized a referendum known as the "Act of Free Choice", which involved a council of around 1,000 selected representatives from various Papuan tribes. However, significant pressures and intimidation marred the process, leading many Papuans to feel betrayed.
To this day, a movement continues to fight for an independent West Papua. The Indonesian state is hitting back hard, using drones in the warfare against the West Papua National Liberation Army. One case, were the Kiwirok bombings in 2021. I have an excellent 700 page book on this topic: P.J. Drooglever, Een daad van vrije keuze. De Papoea´s van westelijk Nieuw-Guinea en de grenzen van het zelfbeschikkingsrecht (Den Haag 2005).
FWP stands for "Front West Papua," which is a political organization advocating for the independence of West Papua from Indonesia.
There wasn’t much time on the first day, so we had a deep purple fresh 100% dragon fruit juice and looked for a local restaurant serving fresh fish. A lot of tuna is landed in Sorong, and we came across a restaurant that wasn’t busy, but judging by the plate of the only customer eating there, we decided to go in. It turned out the man was eating a jaw of a tuna fish. We ordered the same, along with another grilled fish. The quality was simply perfect. The head of a fish has the best tasting meat.
A common grilled fish side dish is this spicy tomato sauce. It looks very similar to Malay air assam tamarind.
Ingredients; 3 small shallot (the dark Indian type, not the light Thai type). Peel it and dice it fine, 4 red rawit (birds eye chilli), cut 4 each, 2 red chilli sliced small, 1 semi ripe or green tomato - diced small, a pinch of salt, 1 tsp of sugar, 1 tbsp of fish sauce, 1 ping pong sized tamarind pulp, diluted in 1 cup of water, seeds and pulp removed, juice of 2 jeruk limo. Simply mix all ingredients together.
Of course, Nenik was feeding stray cats with pieces of fish, which led to a cat accidentally scratching her foot. We spent the last hour searching for a shop that sells disinfectant. During our search, we walked past a colorful little restaurant. I’m known for my adventurous palate, but I draw the line at bats. Later, I learned that bats (Paniki in the local language) are consumed as “medicine” for asthma.
Our homestay featured a typical Indonesian bathroom setup. The shower wasn't working, so the water in the white bucket was used for both showering and flushing the toilet. It may be basic, but it functions perfectly.
Early in the morning, we visited the fish market. Although there were no restaurants, the market was bustling with both fishermen and customers. That evening, we would enjoy grilled fish again, likely purchased at this market just 12 hours earlier.
This lady was baking a mixture of desiccated coconut and palm or coconut sugar in clay holders. We bought some of the baked "cookies," wrapped in banana leaves and still warm. They were simply awesome—sweet and complex.
In the afternoon, we explored Sorong. We got around using tiny Japanese minibuses called Angkot (short for "angkutan kota", city transport). Angkots operate on predetermined routes and are inexpensive, although the buses can be quite battered. A single journey costs about 30 euro cents. Alternatively, you can take a Grab taxi, but the Angkots were more fun.
I thought it would be a good idea to visit the Taman Wisata Mangrove just outside of Sorong, but the walking path into the mangrove was closed. The Grab driver then took us to Taman Wisata Alam Sorong, a nature park, which turned out to be a little underwhelming. While there were some nice orchids growing on the trees, it was unclear how to explore more of the forest. I attempted to walk deeper into the jungle, but Nenik exclaimed, “Don’t go there!”
“Why not?” I asked.
“There’s no path!” she replied.
“Yes, there is; it’s just overgrown,” I countered.
“But there might be snakes!” she warned.
Me: “…..”
Taman Wisata Mangrove Klawalu Sorong
Once upon a time, Taman Wisata Alam Sorong must have been proudly inaugurated by local administrators, but it has now fallen into disrepair. There was little to see, and the paths were not well maintained.
Taman Wisata Alam Sorong
There is a strong Chinese presence in Sorong, but the Vihara Buddha Jayanti was only build in the 1980s. The temple was under renovation so we entered without paying the entrance fee.
View from the Chinese temple.
You wouldn’t expect to find a Berlin Wall in Sorong, yet this is the name of a historical site that has become a symbol of independence from the Dutch. It is an old wall dating back to the Dutch colonial era. Today, the area is filled with grill restaurants in the evenings.
The principle is simple: you select a grill place, pick a fish from the table, and look it in the eye. They will grill the fish for you and serve it with rice and the usual sauces. You’ll need to order the vegetables separately.
Separate order: stir-fried kangkung (water spinach) with garlic.
Papeda is a well-known dish found in parts of Sulawesi, the Maluku Islands, and coastal Papua. While it can sometimes be found in restaurants, it's not always available due to the time-consuming preparation involved; you need to pound sago flour with water until a sticky glue-like paste forms. The owner of our homestay kindly prepared a complete papeda meal for us, featuring spicy fish stew and vegetables.
To eat papeda, spoon the kangkung tumis vegetable soup into a bowl, add some of the sago-glue on top, and then pour in the spicy fish stew to taste. The vegetable soup also contained tiny leaves from the edible moringa tree, Moringa oleifera. I had never eaten moringa before; the leaves are particularly nutritious, rich in vitamins A, C, and E.
My father worked in Sorong for two years, so I was familiar with the name. According to his own stories, he also visited smaller villages in the Papua jungle. As a hobby, he carried a small metal box with scalpels and some basic medicine, like aspirin, to help treat sick Papua. He never mentioned any specific names, but in October 2024, I pressed him to recall one. "Klamono," he suddenly said. I looked it up on Google Maps and discovered it was indeed a tiny village located roughly 50 kilometers from Sorong. I saved the name and planned to visit Klamono during my time in Sorong, though I had no idea what to expect.
There are no buses to Klamono. We hired a car and driver for the day for 600.000 IDR. When we arrived in Klamono, it looked like a dusty town in the Wild West. I decided to walk around a bit and soon I heard religious music in the distance. The sound was coming from giant loudspeakers attached to an equally giant church. In the greater district of Klamono there are apparently 3,000 people living, in the village the number is less than a 1,000. Not sure how accurate these numbers are, but the church seemed big for the community.
Some men standing near the church were a bit puzzled by my appearance. But they were extremely friendly, although they hardly spoke English. Posing in front of my iPhone broke the ice. Nenik could explain my presence in Bahasa Indonesia. When I asked my father which language the Papua were speaking in the 1960s, he said: kust-Maleis, which is also known as pasar-Maleis or Bahasa Dagang, dagang meaning “trade”. It was the language spoken in coastal areas and trading cities. The Papua also speak a local language called Kais.
We wandered around a bit and a man simply started walking with us, and when we returned to the car he just got in the passenger seat and we had ourselves a local guide.
The Catholic mission was as integral to Nieuw-Guinea as oil exploitation. Some Catholic priests were trained as scientists, studying and documenting the local languages. It wasn’t always easy; some priests lived remotely for years with little contact with the outside world. Additionally, there were problems unique to the Catholic clergy, as highlighted in this quote from the book “Toean, Toean, Kartu Abis!” by Jan Aartsen. The book (“Sir, Sir, We ran out of map!”) chronicles the adventures of the Dutch sailors working on the landing ship Kais in the 1950s.
“The next port of call, was the seat of the local ruler, while the Dutch bishop wielded the spiritual scepter there. After the greeting, a local church worker stepped on board with an urgent question: “Did you get any bottles from Sorong?”
With a happy face, he accepted the box of glass bottles. He explained that the sacramental wine was delivered in wooden barrels, which often burst due to the local climate conditions. It was then important to quickly transfer the wine from the barrels to bottles or directly to the ‘users.’ The bishop and his closest spiritual workers drank as much of the wine as possible, to prevent waste, as it was a shame to throw it away. When asked whether the church was perhaps breeding alcoholics, the priest replied that it was not that bad, compared to local administrators.”
My father was not based in Klamono but in Sorong, serving as a first mate on the landing ship Kais under Captain Piet "Snor" (nicknamed "Moustache" for his large mustache). The Kais was built in 1954 by the Arnhemsche Scheepsbouw Maatschappij N.V. and specifically designed to serve as a supply ship for the oil industry in Dutch Nieuw Guinea. I don’t think the 45-meter vessel could sail all the way to Klamono. My father cannot remember whether he traveled to Klamono by road or via the Klasafet River. The road was barely usable in the late 1950s, so the river seems more likely. The road was primarily used to inspect the pipeline and required regular clearing of the encroaching jungle.
Some of the oil products were used locally to develop the area.
“At an incomprehensibly fast pace they built a village (Sorong) from the ground. The roads were paved with the asphalt-rich oil, brought by the Minjak Tanah from Klamono.”
Photo: 1950s.
Typical landing place for the Kais. Photo: 1950s.
This seems to be the Kais sailing up a river, maybe it could reach Klamono.
One day, my father, Kees, was on board one of the mappi, a small motor launch powered by a powerful diesel engine. Without prior warning, Captain Piet Snor handed my father the steering wheel. According to the story, my father didn’t know how to control the mappi, and after some wild manoeuvres, he accidentally hit the Kais, despite having been the third mate on the 136-meter-long oil tanker Omala just before being assigned to the Kais. The complete chapter can be read here: De mannen van de Kais, hoofdstuk 9
“The shock was somewhat dampened by the cork bags protecting the skin of the Kais, but Piet, who had apparently been too flabbergasted to get off his bench, was thrown backwards into the water by the impact.
Kees, as if in a daze, had a brilliant idea and closed the diesel supply tap of the still rushing launch and the boat came to rest. As if in a movie, Kees saw Piet Snor, who looked to him like a walrus in the water because of his fearsome moustache, swimming towards Kais.”
Below the river and the quay were the ships of the NNGPM would land, bringing supplies.
Below our local Papaua guide. His right arm was about 10 centimetres shorter than his left arm
Just before World War II, the NNGPM (Nederlandse Nieuw-Guinea Petroleum Maatschappij), a subsidiary of Shell, discovered oil in Klamono, though it was of poor quality. During the war, the land was occupied by the Japanese, and it wasn’t until 1945 that the NNGPM could exploit the oil fields in Klamono. A pipeline was constructed all the way to Sorong in the 1950s.
I hadn’t realized there was still oil production in Klamono in 2024. I expected to visit a small village, find little to see, and then head back to Sorong. Discovering functioning pumpjacks—two in total—was a pleasant surprise, and I was as excited as if I had discovered the oil myself. The Papuan children were also thrilled to guide me, a guest from Belanda, to the pumpjacks, making it a highlight of my journey.
There is some localised oil spillage.
In my excitement at finding oil and the distraction of seven Papuan children, I hadn’t paid attention to which phone was used to take some of the coolest photos. Unfortunately, it was Nenik's Android phone, which has a really bad, cheap potato camera. Some of the photos below are not even sharp.
For reasons I still don’y fully understand, this young fellow was so happy to see me he was holding hands with me and at times he was literally clinging to my leg. All the children looked unfiltered happy grinning ear to ear all the time.
If you leave it to the jungle, it will take over every machine left behind.
Another small church in Klamono. opposite the church, in green, is a masjid, so there is a small Muslim population on Klamono as well. But in general the, mostly Dutch, missionaries have succeeded in converting the Papua’s of Klamono to Catholicism.
One young Papuan thought I needed a cool pair of sunglasses for the photo, and now I look like a member of ZZ Top—minus the long beard. The little shop belonged to the parents of the girl in the yellow T-shirt next to me, who was the only one able to speak some English. We tried to treat all the children to candy, but they all declined. In the end, we bought some water bottles for ourselves.
Above some old pre-1960 oil tanks. Below the current oil facility of Klamono.This is a pumping station. I don’t believe I have the complete overview of West-Papua oil industry. There is a report available for download for 125 USD. The oil refinery is located in Kasim, which is 90 kilometers from the oil terminal in Sorong. According to the report summary the Papua oil field recovered more than half of its total recoverable reserves, with peak production in 2020. Based on economic assumptions, production will continue until the field reaches its economic limit in 2069.
The oil company now based in Klamono is Pertamina, which is state owned by Indonesia. In 1957, Royal Dutch/Shell's assets in Indonesia were nationalised, from which Permina was founded. In 1968 Pertamina was created as merger between Permina and Pertamin.
Lunch in Klamono was definitely not Papuan. The only restaurant was run by a family from Madura, an island off the coast of East Java. A case of transmigration. I had ayam goreng lalapan, which consists of fried chicken and fresh vegetables.
In the afternoon we drove around the district Klamono. Below is Block B, apparently Indonesians are living here who came to West-Papua as transmigrants. The Indonesians call the movement of people between the different parts of Indonesia transmigration. They are often people from Java seeking job opportunities in parts of Indonesia with more space.
I never questioned how dragon fruit is grown, but in Klamono we drove past some dragon fruit cacti. It is the flower of a cactus native to the region of southern Mexico and along the Pacific coasts of Guatemala, Costa Rica, and El Salvador.
On our way back to the main road, a group of Papuan children waved at us. It would have been rude not to stop for a chat and another photo opportunity. They greeted me by kissing the back of my hand and then briefly placing my hand on their foreheads.
After our tour of Klamono, I felt we should give our impromptu guide something, but I had no idea what would be appropriate. In the end, Nenik gave him some money to buy betel nut, which he seemed pleased with.
In Sorong, I had noticed many red splashes on the pavement that I couldn't quite place. It turned out to be the spit of betel nut chewers. You buy the betel nut and betel leaves along with a mustard stick dipped in slaked lime powder, and then chew the combination, spiting out the red saliva.
How it ended for my father.
“Politics had put an end to the future of a Dutch New Guinea and Kees flew via the airport at Yefman with a small local plane to Biak to transfer to a Stratocruiser of the Panam and fly first class to Manila. After a night in a hotel with film star treatment, he continued via Saigon to Singapore. Apparently he was not allowed to go home yet. On the second day he was called by someone from the office in the Singapore hotel.
’How long do you need to pack,’ was the question. ‘Five minutes,’ said Kees. ‘Then you are the man I am looking for,’ came the sound on the other end of the line, ‘you are going to board the tanker Saroena, which will pass through the Strait in three quarters of an hour, but is not allowed to dock because it is sailing in Indonesia’.
’What about a visa?’, mumbled Kees.
’No time.’ And indeed, three quarters of an hour later, Kees boarded a sailing Saroena, from the agency’s little Shell boat, and was probably treated in the ship’s log as a picked-up drowning person.”
Driving back to Sorong I noticed the Dutch made pipeline. Somebody told me it is still the original pipe, which was laid in the 1950s but I find it hard to believe. In the 1950s the road was difficult to navigate and inspections were carried out by motorbike and even from a Bell helicopter. In the 1990s the road between Sorong and Klamono was properly asphalted.
We had plans to visit Raja Ampat from Sorong, but we soon discovered it was a hyped Instagram destination. Instead, we diverted our plans to spend a couple of days in the Maluku Islands, known in the Netherlands as the Molukken. It's hard to grasp the sheer size of the Maluku Islands, we only visited Ambon because the airport is near Ambon City, along with the spice island of Saparua. There are an estimated 1,027 islands in the Maluku, with Ambon being the most developed, yet relatively small. The Dutch conquered Ambon from the Portuguese in 1605.
We had a comfortable yet affordable hotel in the city center of Ambon, a lively city. In 2019, UNESCO officially designated Ambon as a Creative City of Music. We strolled around for a couple of hours, waiting for the night food market to open. During the day, the food market is a bustling street with cars, but in the evening, the road is blocked and dozens of restaurants are set up. Most places serve grilled fish, but you can also find chicken dishes and goat.
At the night market, you select your fish for grilling. A serving of white rice is included, along with two sauces: a regular sambal and a spicy tomato sauce. The spicy sweet and sour tomato sauce, also served in Sorong, pairs perfectly with grilled fish. We also ordered kangkung (water spinach) and sambal peteh. I thought I had tasted the best grilled fish ever in Sorong, only to be convinced again in Ambon that I had discovered the best grilled fish yet. It was truly that good.
Stir-fried kangkung (water spinach) and garlic, chilis and papaya flowers.
Sambal peteh is made by frying cabai merah (long red chilies), cabai rawit (bird's eye chilies), garlic, shallots, and tomatoes. Lime leaves and peteh beans are added for extra flavor. Some recipes also include tempoyak, which is made from fermented durian.
The ferry to Saparua leaves early in the morning, so once again, we didn't have time for nightlife. I had my first and only beer in Indonesia—a giant 620 ml bottle of lukewarm Bintang beer. The bar had live music, but the songs were mostly international classics. It was almost empty, except for a retired Dutchman, originally from Germany, who had just married a much younger woman from Ambon. He approached me and bluntly asked, “Ben je Nederlander?” He guessed correctly. I tried to finish my warm beer and wished I had ordered fresh fruit juice instead. As we left, we high-fived the singer.
I still have to get used to the idea that Indonesians love to pose with about anybody they meet for no particular reason, like a random hotel front desk clerk in our hotel in Ambon. In a way it’s kinda fun, but who is this guy?
To reach Saparua you first have to cross Ambon to reach a small port where the ferry boats to Saparua leave. The Grab taxi ride takes almost an hour, the boat ride takes about the same amount of time.
Upon arriving in Saparua, you immediately sense its rich history. I could almost imagine the sounds of Dutch hemp ropes squeaking under the tension of the wind as the VOC crew gazed at the same emerald green forest when their ship moored at a distance from the coast. In reality, the VOC ships sailed toward the bay, where Fort Duurstede was built in 1691 after Fort Hollandia was destroyed by an earthquake in 1671. The scale of Benteng Duurstede isn’t particularly impressive; initially, only 10 soldiers were housed in the fortress.
On Saparua, there are very few cars, and the minibuses serve as taxis; they can be expensive if you take one without a larger group. The best mode of transport is on the back of a scooter. It’s about 5 kilometers from the port to Saparua village. I soon discovered that my Indonesian eSIM wasn’t working, and just before we boarded the ferry, I noticed that Booking.com didn’t have any listings available. After arriving on Saparua, I found myself basically offline, as the hotel we found didn’t offer Wi-Fi.
Cloves drying on the street.
Our hotel courtyard.
Just across the street from our hotel there was a very decent restaurant. I got myself a bakso soup with a giant filled meatball called beranak. We shared some fried tofu and tempe penyet and Nenik got an ayam geprek, which is smashed chicken. Penyet means squeezed, and refers to the light squeezing of the tempe to release its flavours.
Ayam geprek.
The fortress (Benteng in Indonesian) was extensively renovated in the 1990s. The original buildings inside the fortress remain as foundations. The outer walls have recently been painted white, and somebody cleaned the few remaining cannons during our visit. The entrance fee is based on a donation, and I contributed a little more than usual on behalf of my Dutch ancestors, even though one family line of mine lived in what is now Germany during the time of the VOC. I had to record my name, and in the comment section, I wrote: “a long and difficult history.”
You cannot travel to Saparua without learning the story of Pattimura. For starters, the airport in Ambon is named Pattimura Airport. His real name was Thomas Matulessy, and in 1817, he led a rebellion against Dutch colonial rule. Matulessy’s forces successfully captured Fort Duurstede, resulting in the deaths of Captain Van der Hellen, his wife, their three youngest children, and a garrison of 19 soldiers. Matulessy has been used as a symbol of both Maluku independence and Indonesian nationalism. He was declared a national hero in 1973 by Sukarno, recognised not by his birth name, but under the title Kapitan Pattimura.
Statue of Thomas Matulessy
In the afternoon, it started to rain, and we sought shelter in the small shop of a Chinese man. I noticed shark fins hanging from the ceiling, and he proudly showcased some of them. They fetch 1.5 million rupiah per kilo, less than 90 euro. The man was the husband of a lady we had met on the ferry, who was active in the church and also a businesswoman—what I would describe in Dutch as a “handige tante.” Earlier, Nenik had mentioned our interest in buying cloves and sago, and before we knew it, the lady claimed she had already purchased a kilo of cloves and two boxes of sago for us. It was hard to back down, even though I had already bought 200 grams of cloves just before. Nenik handed her some money for the cloves and sago. At that point I still assumed we bought sago flower for making papeda.
The next evening, just before we left, the couple appeared at our hotel with two giant boxes filled with sago blocks and a kilo of cloves. I was stunned. How could we carry these boxes all the way to Surabaya? We quickly gave one box to the hotel staff and managed to lug the other box all the way to Surabaya and the village of Durenan.
More sea creatures used for Chinese ‘medicine’.
While we were waiting for the rain to stop, Nenik suddenly followed her nose, disappeared, and returned with a siomay—fish dumplings with vegetables doused in peanut butter sauce. This dish has its origins in China, where it is called shumai. I had eaten it before at a pasar malam in the Netherlands, and I adore the taste.
Warehouse with bags of cloves. I bought 200 gram of cloves.
The humble nasi goreng.
The next day was Sunday. We hired two scooter drivers and headed to Nolot, a predominantly Christian village on the other side of the island. Most villagers were at church, and as we walked around, some services were ending. Churchgoers, dressed for Sunday, filled the streets. One church had a complete brass band playing songs, which reminded me of the Dutch 1993 anthropological film by Johan van der Keuken “Bewogen Koper” (Brass unbound), which explains the global distribution of brass music through colonial military brass bands. The scenario was partly written by anthropologist Rob Boonzajer Flaes, connected to my University of Amsterdam.
Drying sago blocks in Nolot. Little did we know we would end up with two large boxes of this stuff just a day later. The sago is baked in sago ovens, which imparts a smoky flavor to the blocks. After baking, the blocks are dried and then ready for consumption. Roy Ellen and D. Kyle Latinis published a study in 2012 titled "Ceramic Sago Ovens and the History of Regional Trading Patterns in Eastern Indonesia and the Papuan Coast."
Two types of ceramic sago oven produced in Keligah, East Seram in 1986.
Distribution of ceramic sago ovens in: (a) island southeast Asia as a whole, (b) Maluku, and (c) Ambon-Lease and West Seram;
In Nolot, Christmas and New Year's wishes are permanently painted on the walls, along with nativity scenes sculpted from concrete. I dubbed Nolot the village where Christmas lasts 365 days a year.
Jesus standing on a globe.
Due to strong low and high tides, the coastline is composed of mangroves.
We made the mistake of relying on an open restaurant for breakfast, but because it was Sunday and Nolot is a really small village, nothing was available. By 12:30 PM, we were quite hungry and decided to drive back to Saparua village. However, just as we were leaving, we passed a lady’s house with a small shop selling rujak buah, also known as rujak manis.
Side note: There are many different rujak recipes in Indonesia; just on Wikipedia, there are more than twenty. For rujak buah, you need a flat cobek, which is how Nenik noticed the shop. I would have driven right past the house without realizing it was a restaurant.
First, you grind some salt and fresh rawit (chili pepper) into a paste. The lady asked me how many rawit I wanted; I requested five, while Nenik and our two scooter drivers opted for just three. Next, you add fried peanuts and continue grinding until you achieve a coarse paste.
The next step is to add palm sugar, and to balance the sweetness, you can also include tamarind paste. However, I didn't see the lady add any tamarind (asem jawa), unless the block of palm sugar was pre-mixed with it. You can also add some trassi (shrimp paste).
Then comes the fruit. Pineapple is very common, and it was also the season for Malay apples (jambu bol). You can basically add any seasonal fruit, and she also had a bowl of pre-cut fruits available.
Mix everything together, and you have the perfect fruit salad.
We spent our last afternoon in Saparua swimming in the sea, fully clothed. Nenik chatted with many children in Bahasa Indonesia, while I managed little more than responding to the question, “Hey Mister! What is your name?” I took the photos below after swimming, but by then, the golden light of the setting sun had faded. It was a magical afternoon, and the children's faces glowed with a copper hue from the sunlight.
We opened the boxes filled with sago blocks to ensure we weren't smuggling drugs, but they contained only sago. Back in the Netherlands, I tried one of the blocks—you're supposed to dip them in coffee or tea, which softens the block, allowing you to eat it like bread. However, it is quite tasteless, and if you didn't grow up eating sago in this form, it really isn't very enjoyable. Nenik gifted some of the sago blocks to a Dutch-Indonesian friend from the Molukken, as they evoke childhood memories for him.
Our last meal in Saparua was a simple nasi goreng and tempeh penyet. Along with pecel, these are among the simplest meals you can find in Indonesia. I could eat this every day!
In Ambon, we had four hours to spare before our flight to Surabaya. Having spent my entire adult life in Amsterdam, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit Fort Amsterdam. The blockhouse inside the fortress was built in 1637 by the VOC. Although the fortress was restored in 1991, it has lost much of its historic charm, likely due to the fresh white paint. Next to the fortress is Café Amsterdam, but it appeared completely deserted; I could only find one bar stool.
Durenan is not a place you’re likely to know. It is situated between the larger towns of Trenggalek and Tulungagung on the main road, about 4.5 hours south of Surabaya. The road is primarily a two-lane route shared with scooters, and the average speed by car is 50 km/h. You can shorten the journey by an hour by taking a toll highway for the first 100 km. However, it is the home village of Nenik, whom I met in The Netherlands some time ago.
We took a bus from the Surabaya bus station and arrived in the dark. The entire journey from Saparua felt like an Indiana Jones travelogue: we began on the back of a scooter, then took a fast ferry, followed by an hour-long taxi ride, a nearly three-hour flight, another taxi, and finally, a four-hour bus ride. Upon arrival, I was too tired to do anything. The next morning, we had to leave at 7 AM to head to the mountains for an ancestral ceremony with her extended family.
The extended family lives in Pintu, an administrative district in the Ponorogo Regency. Pintu has a population of 1,667 residents. Practically all houses are farms. Pinto is another 2,5 hours from Durenan. For the occasion the family hired a bright coloured minibus to travel to Pintu. Below a typical Pintu farmhouse painted in Hello Kitty pink.
Typical East-Java farmer’s meal: white rice, vegetables stews, often made with some type of fish, a tiny piece of meat, boiled egg and krupuk.
While the two-day trip served as a social family gathering, it was also an occasion to honor the ancestors. We visited three separate burial sites. The first site resembled a typical graveyard, and the path leading there wound through the rice fields. After washing our hands and feet, we squatted around the family grave of five ancestors. Following a recitation of religious texts by one of the elders, we sprinkled flowers over the graves—three handfuls of flowers for each one. By that point, I could no longer squat; my leg muscles simply couldn't handle the Asian squat.
On the way to the graveyard I spotted my favourite vegetable: bitter melon. But I prefer the Surinamese name: sopropo.
The second graveyard had a little wooden construction dedicated to another ancestral grave and a plate with the family tree going back seven generations. The same ritual with recitations and the sprinkling of flowers was repeated. The oldest ancestor was buried in the mountains. We would visit that site later in the afternoon.
The final stage of the family gathering took us higher into the mountains. Our minibus driver wasn’t sure how to get there, so we followed another black minibus with more family members. At times, our two-wheel drive bus barely made it up the slopes; a four-wheel drive vehicle was almost a necessity. After about an hour, we reached our destination: a small house that was apparently the family's ancestral home.
The house consists of just one room for praying and sleeping, where both men and women share the space, even at night. Meals are enjoyed outside on the veranda. At the back of the house, there is a kitchen and toilet. The house has electricity and fresh water.
A little higher up in the mountains was the ancestral grave. I'm not sure if anyone is actually buried there. The "grave" is a small wooden structure next to a rock with striking features.
At the rock, another ritual was held. However, during the recitation of the texts, I suddenly heard hissing and growling. I saw Nenik’s sister's hands transform into claws, clawing at the muddy forest floor. The growling grew louder, and the people around her became agitated. It appeared that she was possessed by the spirit of a tiger. One of the men rushed down the mountain to fetch some water while other family members tried to restrain her, but her movements became increasingly violent and uncontrollable. The anthropologist in me wanted to capture everything on video, but I had only just met half of the family members a few hours earlier.
Close up of the ancestor’s house.
In the end four men carried her down to the house where everybody sat around her, singing and comforting her. The tiger spirit slowly left her and after twenty minutes or so, she was back to normal and it was if nothing had happened. “Oh, she does that all the time”, somebody explained to me. The night set in and the forest went dark.
While tigers were officially declared extinct on Java in 2003, they remain part of the cultural memory. The last reliable sighting of a Javan tiger occurred in 1976. I had already become fascinated by the Korean mountain god san-shin, who can shapeshift into a tiger. In Indonesia, there is a similar belief in tigers as protectors of forests and sacred places. Within the Kejawen mystical tradition, there is a concept of siluman harimau (tiger spirits), which are shapeshifters or supernatural beings capable of taking the form of a tiger.
COLLECTIE_TROPENMUSEUM_Wajang_Kantjil
The next morning, the family gathering resembled any typical family gathering. We all took a walk together to a viewpoint, with the women wearing their pajamas. In the photo below are Nenik, one of her sisters (not the one who was possessed by the tiger), and her Dutch-Portuguese husband. In the middle is Yogi, a nephew who is still figuring out life. Currently, he’s working in a hotel in Bali and enjoying the Balinese nightlife. He joked that he believes in Allah, the Christian God, the Hindu gods, and Buddha if necessary to the hilarity of the family. While the family may be Muslim, there is tolerance toward other beliefs.
After our walk, two deer hunters stopped by. In true Indonesian fashion, we soon found ourselves posing with their guns, looking like Bonnie and Clyde. The guns were probably not loaded, but in hindsight, it didn't cross my mind at the time to ask. The Javan rusa natively occurs on the islands of Java.
The forest is filled with magic. Not far from the ancestral house is a small stream with a water source. I stripped naked and washed myself with the healing water using the plastic bucket. Everyone believes that the water can heal any ailment.
On our way back to Durenan, the family spotted a man on a motorbike carrying fresh bundles of harvested peteh beans. He was practically ambushed, and after some haggling over the price, we bought two large bunches of the beans. Some of the peteh beans eventually made their way to my fridge in Amsterdam.
Normally, I am not a fan of sweet desserts or drinks. However, this es dawet gempol jabung, made from rice and coconut milk, was only lightly sweetened. I was fortunate, as this drink can often be very sweet. Some fermented rice grains floated in the drink, and a block of ice kept it cool. In West Java, this drink is known as es cendol.
The kitchen in the family home serves as the main gathering space. The house doesn't have a living room; instead, there is a reception room with furniture that nobody ever uses. The family spends most of their time in the kitchen, sitting on the floor while preparing food and eating. Although there’s a table with chairs outside, it remains unused. The rest of the house consists of nine bedrooms and six bathrooms.
Indonesians are serious about krupuk. These crispy crackers come in many variations, some made from cow skin and others from fish skin. Krupuk udang is the most well-known variety outside of Indonesia. On our flight to Amsterdam, we filled our checked baggage with food, each weighing 23 kilograms, with uncooked krupuk among our haul. Meanwhile, my carry-on, which contained clothing for two weeks, weighed just 7 kilograms.
The cheapest food you can find is paper wrapped pecel. The name refers to the peanut sauce. It is served on rice, boiled vegetables like beansprouts and any green leaf vegetable available, including a small piece of krupuk. This is not even street food, it is usually cooked by a nearby neighbour. It costs around 30 eurocents. Eat with your hands.
Full view of the family house.
Between the road and the houses, there is a canal. As recently as the 1980s, the houses didn't have indoor toilets. At 4 AM, when it was still conveniently dark, villagers would hang from the bamboo bridges and relieve themselves directly into the canal. One day, the bamboo railing broke, and everyone fell into the canal among the floating excrement. Decades later, people still find this story hilarious.
Nenik’s sister has a little roadside restaurant selling Tahu Sumedang, a Sundanesedeep-fried tofu from Sumedang, West Java.
Location of the family home on Google Maps.
Ribbon development along the main road.
In the evening, we walked into the village to buy some take-away food: nasi goreng and satay. There’s no single correct way to make nasi goreng, and this cook was simply frying eggs, green vegetables, and rice over a high flame. As he cooked, he added a splash from each of the six bottles into the wok: chili pastes, ketjap, and possibly oyster sauce.
On the second-to-last day, I finally had satay. The price is per 10 satay sticks. Before I knew it, I was ushered toward the cooking station, waving the kipas (fan) as if I was grilling the satay. The cook was from Madura, and suddenly everyone seemed to know how to speak Bahasa Madura.
From Durenan, it’s about 38 kilometers to the beach, or roughly an hour by car. Between the flat plains of Durenan and the sea are mountains. When we arrived, it was pouring rain—a true case of Kurosawa rain. When I checked my Radar Pro app, it didn’t seem like the weather would clear that day. We spent an hour drinking coffee and eating cow skin krupuk in a small café.
Around noon, the weather improved, and we drove to a popular beach. The narrow boats there are used for tourist trips, but I was more interested in swimming. I had brought my swimming trunks from Amsterdam, but they were deemed too revealing, so I had to buy a pair that offered more coverage. As is customary, I kept my T-shirt on.
At first, I ran into the sea where the family was swimming, only to realise there were sharp rocks hidden beneath the surface, and I cut my finger on a piece of coral. So much for paradise! Fortunately, 500 meters away, I found a narrow corridor with only sand. I stayed as long as possible in the warm water.
The next day, we explored the rural side of Durenan. Until then, I had only seen the ribbon development along the main road, which made Durenan seem like a very noisy village. However, walking perpendicular to the road, everything changed within a few hundred meters. Suddenly, a peaceful silence became apparent. Villagers use the paths between the rice fields for running or jogging. Some of the rice fields are privately owned, while others belong to the municipality.
Below is the nursery for rice plants. Once the tiny plants are big enough, each seedling is transplanted to the rice field.
Mobile shop on a motorbike. When I looked closer, I saw the man was selling fresh meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, and dried foods. It had everything you need to cook a meal.
This is what you can achieve with the earnings from more than a decade of kitchen and healthcare sector cleaning work in the Netherlands, typically working between 6 and 7 days a week. Nenik built this hotel on a piece of land she personally inherited. The hotel features four rooms, each with four bunk beds, and is intended as a student hotel for a nearby school. When fully occupied, the annual turnover should be around €6,000, which is enough to live on after retirement. However, like many first-generation migrants, Nenik faces the question: Should she fully migrate back to Indonesia as planned, or should she stay in the Netherlands to be close to her daughter and possibly grandchildren?
In the final hours of daylight on our last evening, we visited the family grave, about 10 minutes away by motorbike. I sat on the back of a driver who had one eye. It became evident that the flowers traditionally sprinkled over a grave can be purchased at the entrance of the graveyard. They consist of a mixture of white and red flowers along with green leaves.
The family plot in the graveyard was purchased recently. An unknown baby was already buried there, marked by a tiny unmarked grave that cannot be removed for obvious reasons. To prevent others from using the plot, the family built a wall around it, as this is apparently a concern. Weeds grow quickly in Indonesia, so we all spent time removing them by hand after sprinkling flowers and praying. Aside from the baby, the only other grave is Nenik's father, who passed away just a few years ago. At that time, I bought the family a goat to be slaughtered so they could serve satay kambing to the funeral guests.
Last home cooked family meal in Durenan: cooked vegetables and pepesan ikan, fish steamed in banana leaf with a spicy bumbu. Once you get the bumbu right, Indonesian cooking is quite easy. The journey home to Amsterdam was long: almost four hours by car to the airport in Surabaya, a flight to Jakarta, an eight hour flight to Dubai, and another eight hour flight to Amsterdam. Each layover was about four hours. It took me a week to recover from jetlag as I didn’t sleep for 33 hours.
Ἀνερρίφθω κύβος . The dice is cast. My ticket to Athens is booked, and from the airport, I will head straight to the port of Piraeus to catch a boat to Naxos. Thanks, Tony. I stumbled upon Naxos thanks to Anthony Bourdain's 2016 episode of Parts Unknown, filmed there.
I find inspiration in Bourdain; perhaps it’s those well-crafted one-liners, like, "Is it worse to be someplace awful when you're by yourself or someplace really nice that you can't share with anyone?"
Then, at 61 years old, he took his own life.
This journey will be another opportunity to contemplate loneliness. Great hiking trails too.
“A smell of seaweed and salt rose from the wind-tossed, always invisible sea. This empty town, white with dust, saturated with sea smells, loud with the howl of the wind, would groan at such times like an island of the damned.”
I packed just one book before boarding my plane to Athens: The Plague by Albert Camus. I bought this book during the early weeks of the 2020 coronavirus pandemic, but until now, I hadn't found the peace of mind to read it. I had read The Plague in the 1990s but had forgotten much of it. Ironically, in the week leading up to my journey, I had fallen ill with a virus—perhaps COVID-19 or possibly influenza. I felt extremely tired and had lost my sense of smell. Of all the food I ate and photographed, I could only sense texture and the basic tastes of salt and bitterness. It was a Greek tragedy.
Early in the morning, I boarded a ferry in the port city of Piraeus. It felt like walking into the belly of a great whale, surrounded by thick clouds of diesel fumes—a fitting start to my odyssey.
Upon arriving in Naxos, the world shifted from dark to light. I rented an electric fat bike to reach my "Villa," located roughly 14 kilometers from the Chóra, also known as Naxos or Naxos Town. The owner of the villa texted me directions: “Turn right at the olive tree.” However, since I was coming from the opposite direction, it was actually a left turn. I had five full days to explore Naxos.
The day before my flight, I hadn't booked anything yet, so my choice of a villa in Kastraki was made quite randomly. Kastraki is a cluster of houses located 14 kilometers from the port; it’s so small that it hardly qualifies as a hamlet. I was pleasantly surprised by the property: a bedroom with a double bed in the basement, a living room and kitchen on the ground level, another double bed on the first floor, and a private swimming pool. It felt like an abundance of luxury for just one person.
On my first day, there wasn't much time to explore. I was too tired anyway, so I lingered in the swimming pool, watching the shadows of the waving reeds dance on the white wall.
Despite lacking both smell and taste, I decided to pretend otherwise. I walked to a beach tavern aptly named Paradise, just a ten-minute walk away, and ordered a glass of ouzo, a Greek salad, boiled vegetables, and grilled sardines.
Greek restaurant owners in Germany have a habit of serving a glass of undiluted ouzo after dinner in a shot glass. Ouzo is an apéritif and should be diluted with two parts water and sipped slowly.
The next day, I did some light exploring in the morning. I started cycling south until I spotted a cedar tree forest on Google Maps. To my surprise, the cedar trees turned out to be comically small; I towered over even the largest ones.
A bit further south, Pyrgaki Beach was completely deserted despite the near 30-degree Celsius temperatures and a clear blue sky.
In the afternoon, I cycled to the Temple of Demeter in Sangrí, only to discover it was closed on Tuesdays. Perhaps, like the God from the book of Genesis who rested on the seventh day, Demeter takes a break on Tuesdays.
I maintained the same dinner ritual as the evening before. At 7 PM, just after sunset at 6:50 PM, I sat at the same table and ordered my meal as if I still had my sense of smell and taste. I chose the taramasalata, which was thankfully not pink, along with stuffed bell pepper and eggplant. Naturally, a glass of ouzo and a glass of red wine accompanied the meal. The texture of the stuffed bell pepper and eggplant was perfect, and the taramasalata also seemed very good.
In restaurants, taramasalata is often bright pink, typically colored with beet juice or another food coloring. However, the color should be beige. It is simply emulsified fish roe mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, and soaked bread or potatoes.
I had planned to recreate everything I ate on Naxos in Amsterdam. However, I soon realized that many Greek dishes are oven-based, which is unfortunate since my oven in Amsterdam is not functioning, and I’m not sure if it can be repaired.
After dinner, I pointed my iPhone at the moon to observe the starry sky. The bright sparkle just above the horizon turned out to be Venus, and I was staring right at the constellation Ophiuchus. The 2nd-century astronomer Ptolemy had already cataloged this constellation. Ancient sailors navigated the Aegean Sea by looking at the stars; they must have gazed upon the same constellation.
The next day, I made sure to arrive at the temple site when it opened. What you see there is not the ruins of the original temple; a Byzantine basilica was built on the site around 600 AD. This basilica fell into ruins during the Middle Ages. In 1949, the remains of a temple were discovered, and excavations began in 1976 and continued until 1995. In the mid-1990s, the original temple, built around 530-520 BC, was partially restored.
A good side view of the partially restored temple.
Remains of the temple and basilica before reconstruction (1988). Attribution: Mark Landon.
The oldest remains of cult activity are protected by glass plates and date back to a time before the construction of the marble temple. It is not definitively proven that the temple was dedicated to Demeter; no inscriptions were found, and this is inferred only by its location in a rural area far from any larger settlement.
Below, the fertile fields stretch all the way to the coast, making it easy to see why this site could have been chosen for a temple dedicated to a goddess of harvest and agriculture. Further reading: The Temple of Demeter.
One of the main reasons for coming to Naxos was to explore the hiking trails. I started my first walk at 11 AM, planning to cover the 6.5 kilometers to Chalkio, also known as Chalki or Halki. Normally, I wouldn’t think twice about this distance. However, upon arriving in Chalkio, I realized I would need to walk back to retrieve my electric fat bike to return to my villa. Three hours of walking was all the energy I had for that day.
The hiking paths mostly wind through agricultural fields, separated by rock fences. Most fields are dotted with old olive trees, sheep, or both. Without the sense of smell, the landscape felt flat, like walking through a painting.
The first time I traveled to Greece, Freddo Espresso didn’t exist; it was first created in Athens in 1991, made by mixing two shots of espresso with ice in a frapièra and pouring it over ice. I ordered a Freddo Espresso without sugar—bitter like the night. That I did taste.
In Chalkio, I discovered a small restaurant called Tradizionale Caffè Ristorante Galanis. They had a handwritten menu that changes daily. I ordered Briam, a slow oven-baked vegetable dish for just 7 euros.
For the third time, I sat down at the same table exactly at 7 PM, ten minutes after sunset. I ordered tzatziki and lemon goat with Naxos potatoes, but they didn’t have goat and instead offered the same dish with pork. For good measure I also ordered a glass of ouzo and a glass of red wine.
Tzatziki is made from strained yogurt, which should be very thick, mixed with cucumber, garlic, salt, olive oil, and a touch of vinegar.
“ Don’t tell me what you ate. Tell me who you ate with.”
Lemon Pork and Naxos potatoes.
Next chapter: Dionysus
It was time for another attempt at a long hike. This time, I fat biked to Chalki (Χαλκί), also known as Halki, and found the footpath to Moni. The distance is roughly 5 kilometers. Moni is about 500 meters above sea level, and it’s an easy path when you’re fit.
Hiking from Chalkio to Moni.
In Moni, the cats have their own little houses. The village is known for its textiles, and several women approached me, trying to sell me pieces of cloth. However, my small two-room apartment in Amsterdam has no space left for souvenirs, so I had to politely brush the ladies off.
There are a few taverns in Moni. I ordered a Freddo Espresso. The interior featured a mermaid painting and a small photograph of Karl Marx. Traveling off-season, I was the only tourist in Moni around noon.
On my way down I was followed by a Cyclops.
Back in Chalki, I returned to the same restaurant for lunch and chose the eggplant in tomato sauce, which looked amazing and would have tasted great.
“It was one of those times when the plague became invisible. This silence, this death of colours and movement, could belong to summer as much as to the pestilence”
In the morning I cycled to the sanctuary of Dionysus. It was striking how agricultural the land is. These are the fertile plains of Naxos. The road leading to the sanctuary isn’t asphalted; it’s just a dirt path lined with green potato fields. Autumn is the best season for Naxian potatoes.
The existence of a Temple of Dionysus was mentioned by Herodotus, but its location was forgotten over the centuries. In the 1960s, archaeologists studied a Byzantine church on the plains near the Chóra and conducted test drills in a field nearby, ultimately discovering the missing temple. However, it would take decades—until the late 1980s—before Greek and German archaeologists excavated the temple area. They found the bases of pillars and wall foundations from several temples built at the same location over two thousand years.
The current site features the partial reconstruction of some pillars and the foundation of the temple. It is believed that the place of worship dates back to the 14th century BC (Mycenean era), which is a long time ago.. From around 850 to 750 BC, during the Geometric period, four buildings were constructed, and in 580 BC (Archaic period) the last monumental temple was build.
An overlay of a drawing of the 580 BC temple can be seen against the current remains in the background. The roof, including the roof tiles, was made of marble, which was an innovation at that time. Due to political developments, Naxos lost its power by 477 BC, and the temples of Dionysus, Demeter, and the unfinished temple of Apollo were the only temples built on Naxos.
In the afternoon, I realized I hadn’t even taken a swim in the sea. I needed to head back to my villa on my fat bike to grab my swimming trunks and a towel. The importance of traveling with a towel cannot be overstated. Every interstellar hitchhiker knowns this. “You can lie on it on the brilliant marble-sanded beaches of Santraginus V, inhaling the heady sea vapours”.
The crystal-clear blue water evokes a sense of eternity on a calm day. The tiny ripples seem suspended in time. Nothing is moving, not even my mind. I had lunch in an almost empty restaurant, where tables and chairs awaited better days. For me, the empty chairs inspired thoughts of my future plans. I envision having a small outdoor space I can call my own, dedicated to a little table and at least two chairs to host a future female friend. That’s all I want from life at this point: to share a meal with someone.
In the clear water, I was surrounded by at least a dozen young saddled seabream. They seemed eager to nibble on my legs and were not afraid of me; these little fish appeared to feel invincible.
Despite the goats reminding me of the goat stew I had seen on the menu, I was too tired to visit the Paradise Tavern in the evening. Instead, I bought sheep’s yogurt and kefir and spent some time reading Camus’ The Plague. I couldn't help but chuckle when I read about civil servant Joseph Grand polishing the first sentence of his book and failing miserably.
“Triumphantly, he read out the sentence: ‘On a fine May morning, a slender woman was riding a resplendent sorrel mare through the avenues full of flowers of the Bois de Boulogne.’ But when it was read aloud, the repetition of ‘of’ at the end of the sentence sounded ugly and Grand stumbled a little over it. He sat down, seeming crushed.”
Third and final chapter: Zeus, and Apollo I guess
I saved the best for last, or so I thought. Earlier, I was too tired to climb the highest peak of the island, but I wanted to see where Zeus acquired his bolts of lightning. On a more human level, Zeus was worshipped by the Naxians as "the protector of sheep and goats," which is important too.
The path to the peak of Mount Zas begins near a small spring. The first thirty minutes were manageable, but the ascent soon left me breathless. It took another forty-five minutes to reach the peak, followed by seventy-five minutes on the way down. Although it’s considered an easy mountain, the path ends after fifteen minutes, requiring you to scramble over large rocks to reach the summit. Unfortunately, I simply didn’t have the energy—thanks to that damn virus. I found myself explaining my situation to a random American girl for no particular reason, wishing her luck as she continued onward. I felt a bit defeated, but once I decided not to continue, I simply shrugged and stumbled back down.
In the mountain village Filoti, I ordered a glass of red wine to help me forget my failed mission and devise a plan for the afternoon.
All I could think about was returning to the beach for my final afternoon and evening. Once again, I was surrounded by the brave little saddled seabream, and I stayed in the warm water to watch the sun inch closer to the horizon. These were the last moments of light. I realized that in two days, I would touch down in a dark autumnal Amsterdam—no more lightness.
I had to return to the Paradise Tavern for my final ritual: fine dining without smell or taste. The grilled octopus was excellent, and the texture was truly enjoyable. I have hesitated to eat octopus ever since I learned about their incredible intelligence. Then I thought: would Odysseus eat octopus? He probably would.
As a digestif, the staff at Paradise tavern offered me a glass of Kitron on the house. Perhaps they took pity on me, as I was the only person dining alone all three nights I visited. This citron liquor is made from citron leaves, with the main production occurring in Chalki. However, a shortage of citron trees limits its availability. Kitron comes in three varieties: green, colorless, and yellow, with the latter being the most bitter and the green version the sweetest.
On a small island connected by a pier to the Chóra, and the port, stands the Portára, a monumental temple gate erected around 530 BC. It was part of a temple dedicated to Apollo, but the temple was never completed. Apollo and Dionysus represent two opposing principles: the static, clear, and pure Apollo, and the dynamic, unleashed, ecstatic Dionysus.
This was a strange journey, traveling with two important senses—smell and taste—diminished from the usual. With less energy to be active, I had more time to think and read. My flight back home was on Monday, so I spent Sunday evening in the port city of Piraeus. When there are cats, I’m happy. But the marina filled with expensive yachts is quite unappealing. The heart of Piraeus lies in the narrow streets between the apartment buildings on the many hills, where people grill over open coals in the street and neighbors gather outside, with balconies overflowing with green plants. Unlike Oran, Piraeus is anything but a neutral place.
“A convenient way of getting to know a town is to find out how people work there, how they love and how they die. [...] Naturally, they also enjoy simple pleasures: they love women, the cinema and sea bathing. But they very sensibly keep these activities for Saturday evening and Sunday, while trying on other days of the week to earn a lot of money.”
Piraeus beach.
A placeholder post for my upcoming journey. The title is the official motto of Qatar. The photo below was taken in 1968 or 1969. I will finally set foot again in Doha, Qatar.
Few destinations have been as eagerly anticipated by me as the city of Doha. When I last left Doha, it was a town of 80,000 people; by 2024, the population has grown to 1.2 million, making it only slightly larger than Amsterdam. Although Doha is not a vast metropolis, it maintains a human-scale feel. I booked a hotel within walking distance of the old Souq Waqif, which was established in the late 19th to early 20th century.
In 1969, we lived not far from the souq. As I sat down for breakfast, I listened to the music from the vintage radio on display, enjoyed the morning sunlight, inhaled the aroma of cardamom from my coffee, and felt completely at peace. My sensory experience was likely similar to what my parents experienced 55 years ago, although I never heard them rave about Arabic coffee. My father insists he didn’t drink it.
Visiting Doha, or any Arab Gulf nation, at the end of May is considered off-season. Temperatures typically reach 43 degrees Celsius at midday, which most tourists find too hot. However, I wasn't bothered by the heat. In Doha, a cool sea breeze can often be felt, making the temperature feel just below 40 degrees.
Souq Waqif on a postcard, late 1960s.
Qatari coffee
Breakfast in Souq Waqif included unsweetened Arabic coffee and a simple chapati, which can be filled with egg, cheese, or both. The souq is a great place to buy spices, kitchenware, and clothing. I purchased a handmade Qatari agal with tassels, although I'm not sure when I would wear it outside the Arab world.
Katara is like a village within Doha, opened in 2010. I visited Katara after seeing it highlighted on the in-flight entertainment on Qatar Airways, but I found it wasn't really for me. While it's intended to reflect the country's cultural and architectural heritage, all I could see were unappealing buildings. However, it does host many cultural festivities, so perhaps I shouldn't judge too quickly.
The beaches of Katara appear to be private; I was kindly escorted away by security guards three times before I gave up. You can't touch the sand.
One non-alcoholic drink I learned to love was a mint-lime drink.
The Doha Metro, which opened in 2019, still looks brand new five years later. Each train has three compartments: family, general, and gold. The family section is designated for women, while the gold compartment is accessible to anyone willing to pay extra for a journey and a gold membership card. All trains, built in Japan, are driverless.
The MIA (Museum of Islamic Art) is definitely worth a visit. Designed by Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei, it opened in 2008 and was newly renovated in 2022, so it looks brand new. The collection is extensive, spanning three continents—Asia, Africa, and Europe—and showcases 1,400 years of Islamic influence.
“What was done was worthwhile ”
This folio belongs to the 9th Century Blue Quran, written in Kufic script. It was likely produced in Tunisia or Spain, although its exact origin remains unknown. During the Ottoman Empire, the 600 folios were scattered, with many pages ending up in museums around the world. The indigo-colored parchment is even more beautiful in person; photos do not do it justice.
Al Wakrah is a city with 90,000 inhabitants located just south of Doha. It can be reached by taking the red metro line to the final station, Al Wakrah. From there, you can either take a local bus or a taxi to Souq Waqif Al Wakrah. While it may appear to be a restored old souq, it is actually a completely newly designed space featuring heritage elements. It's a fantasy, but I must admit it has been executed with great taste.
Iced karkadé
Camel patrol on the Al Wakrah beachfront while I was sipping my iced hibiscus drink, called كَركَديه karkadé in Arabic. I visited Al Wakrah every day just before sunset because it is such a relaxed and quiet place to be.
I appreciated the traditional dallah served with Qatari coffee and dates. I love this way of serving coffee, as a tea light keeps it hot, allowing you to sip from tiny cups. This approach is far more relaxed than having to finish a cup of coffee before it cools.
Al Wakrah has a small fishing harbor that is off-limits to unauthorized persons. I managed to slip past the security guard by pretending I was meeting someone. Once inside, I was amazed to see that wooden dhows are still used for fishing, although they are now motorized, and the crews are typically Bangladeshi or Indian. Each dhow tends to specialize in catching one type of fish.
In the Souq of Al Wakrah, grilled fish restaurants abound. When ordering, you can choose how you want the fish spiced: Arabic with no chili or Indian with plenty of chili. The grilled fish is generally of good quality; I tried the sea bass. 'Mandi' has its origins in Yemen and is made by cooking basmati rice in spiced meat stock.
Back in Doha, the city truly comes alive at night. You can take a boat trip on a dhow toward the West Bay and its colorful high-rise buildings.
The National Museum of Qatar is built in the shape of a desert rose. [ this post is under construction ]
The first onshore oil concession was awarded in 1935. At that time the people of Qatar were living a nomadic lifestyle. In the hot summer, they would spent time on the cooler coastline diving for pearls. In the winter they packed their large tents and lived in the desert, leaving some to guard the family house on the coast.
I have to admit I completely missed the 2017 diplomatic conflict between Saudi-Arabia and Qatar. What I assumed was a three-hour bus trip between Doha and Al-Hofuf turned out to be an international flight from Doha to Riyadh, followed by a two-hour train journey on the 1980s Dammam-Riyadh line.
I came to Al-Hofuf to see the Al Ahsa Oasis, which has been protected as a cultural landscape by UNESCO since 2018. With 2.5 million date palm trees, it is the largest oasis in the world. I had hoped to study the water management, but I only had one day and too little time for that. The oasis is so extensive that taxis are necessary to travel from one location to another.
Within the oasis is Al-Qarah Mountain, a mesa about 75 meters high with caves formed primarily by water erosion. The temperatures inside the caves are quite pleasant, which is why they have been inhabited since ancient times. Now, the caves have been turned into a tourist attraction called The Land of Civilisation, and I was the only visitor that morning.
Before entering the caves, I purchased some dates for breakfast. I love the practice of replacing the pits with almonds. While I was never a big fan of dates, after tasting them in Saudi Arabia, I have become a fan—you just need to buy quality dates.
Entrance to the caves.
People inside Al-Qarah Mountain, 1924 A.D.
Before entering the caves, I was led through a small exhibition about the history of Islam. This is Saudi Arabia flexing its soft power muscle. The host spoke perfect English, and at the end of the tour, I was handed a bag with some gifts: two paper cups of Arabic coffee and dates (which came in handy as breakfast in my hotel room), an English translation of the Quran, and some Vision 2030 leaflets.
Once upon a time, the oasis was the only place in Saudi Arabia where rice was grown. However, in 1938, petroleum was discovered near Dammam. Today, the largest oil field, the Ghawar Field, is located in the Al-Ahsa Governorate, leading to the region's rapid modernization. The tiny Al Khalifa Heritage Museum serves as a testament to that process, and I was the only visitor that day.
The oasis boasts a total of 2.5 million date palm trees, and I learned that the date farms are privately owned, with a total production of 100,000 tons of dates per year. After visiting Al-Qarah Mountain and the heritage museum, I spent the rest of the day wandering through the date farms. Those palm trees are quite beautiful.
Source: Analyzing the Spatial Correspondence between Different Date Fruit Cultivars and Farms’ Cultivated Areas, Case Study: Al-Ahsa Oasis, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/12/11/5728
I had planned to get a haircut during my trip, but the choice of barber turned out to be quite random. I took a taxi ride to a كبسة kabsah restaurant, only to find it was takeout only. As I started walking and feeling a bit lost, I passed a barber shop. Without thinking, I walked in and discovered that they didn't speak English or Arabic—they were Turkish.
I did understand that they were advising me to dye my graying beard black, and from that moment on, I simply nodded at every suggestion they made. The whole process took an hour and a half, and at one point, I even looked like a smurf! I paid 100 riyals, which wasn't too bad for the amount of time they spent on me.
This was not my most environmentally friendly journey. To get from Al-Hofuf to Jeddah, I had to backtrack by train to Riyadh and then choose between a 14-hour bus ride or a one-and-a-half-hour flight. Naturally, the train station is located in the south of Riyadh, while the airport is in the north, so I had to take a 50-kilometer taxi ride once again. Nonetheless, I reached my hotel in Jeddah before 4 PM the same day.
EMD SD50 diesel locomotive on the Dammam–Riyadh line. The line was opened. in 1981. There is also a second Dammam–Riyadh line via Haradh, which is only used for freight.
I had planned to visit the ancient rock art in the Ha’il region, 90 km northwest of the city of Ha’il. These carvings, dating back up to 10,000 years, are part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. BHowever, Google indicated that the site was temporarily closed. When I contacted tour companies for more information, they confirmed that no tours were currently available. I assumed the extreme heat of the summer season made visits impractical. I redirected my plans to the port city of Jeddah. Historic Jeddah, the Gate to Makkah, is another UNESCO World Heritage site.
When early on in Islam Mecca became an important religious city. Jeddah became the port of Mecca during the reign of the 3rd Caliph Othman ibn Affan. After the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 Jeddah flourished like never before. The Suez Canal linked Europe and Asia with modern steamboats. The merchants of Jeddah built multi-storey decorated houses, which still exist today. It is clear the old city center is still being renovated. Some older buildings are boarded-up behind fences marked “Ministry of Culture”.
The people of Jeddah love their cats. There are cats feeder stations all over the place.
Modern Jeddah is still very much a merchant city. The amount of shops is impressive. The main import partner of Saudi-Arabia is China, which shows. Roaming the streets were groups of men from Pakistan, Bangladesh and India, all in national attire. The whole scene reminded me of Deep Space 9 space station.
The first night I had some trouble finding a restaurant because in the ancient part of the city there is little food to find. I had to walk for a bit to find an Indian restaurant, which caters for Indian migrant workers. It was incredible cheap for 3 euro including a can of cola and a bottle of water. Around the corner was the Bangladesh Store. These neighbourhoods are populated by mostly male migrant workers from Asia. You don’t see Saudis or women.
My second day in Jeddah was a Friday. This meant that in the morning everything was closed. On Friday families have lunch together and it is only after lunch businesses start opening. This posed a problem for my breakfast. After searching all streets I found a convenience store. But they only had processed food of the worst kind. Because I was very hungry I settled for a couple of cheese puffs. A cat begged for a piece of my cheese puff but I deemed cheese puffs too unhealthy for a cat.
Then I really wanted to drink coffee, but again, no open coffee place to be found. While walking I met a man from Yemen and he took the task upon himself to find a coffee place for me. He asked many guards along the way and we finally found a hidden place in a worn down apartment block. The little shop also sold bread rolls. I tried to pay for his bread roll but he refused. We sat together while I drank my coffee. When we parted ways I was happy I could give him a small bottle of water, which he first refused, but he took the bottle after I pressed him to take it. It was all very polite.
Some parts of ancient Jeddah are beautifully green. And again, cats all around.
The fish market of Jeddah is one of the best I ever visited. The fish is so fresh some are still alive. It is also a great place to shelter from the heat. When I wanted to eat lunch I looked for a fish restaurant. I was told I had to buy a fish and bring it to the restaurant. A young guy in his twenties went along in my search for a fish.
The restaurant had only two ways of preparing fish: frying or grilling. I needed a fish suitable for one of the two methods. I was told hamor هَامُّوْر, was the best fish for deep frying. Hamor is a type of grouper. Next to the hamor were harid, which is a parrotfish. I decided to buy two hamor instead of one. The weight was one kilo so I paid 40 riyal.
After paying for the fish they needed to be cleaned. There is a special fish cleaning service at the fish market. The price you pay is based on the weight of the fish and I only paid a couple of riyal.
After my fish were cleaned the guy helping me got a bit agitated. Apparently he realised it was almost prayer time, and the kitchen would be closed very soon. We ran through the fish market with my freshly cleaned fish but were just too late. I had all day so I didn’t mind. At one point he seemed to suggest we were going to pray together but I thought: how can I pray with a fish? I waited in the restaurant and hoped my fish stayed cold enough not to spoil. In the end the prayer lasted just over half an hour.
After prayer the guy came back for me to help me navigate the ordering proces. Frying the fish cost 15 riyal and the sayadia (=fishermans catch) rice cost 12 riyal, a total of 27 riyal or about 6,75 euro. Before I could pay, the guy took out his phone and paid for me. I was a little stunned. I invited him to eat together but he had to get back to work and he disappeared.
Back in the old center I stumbled upon this Sobia سوبيا bar. This sobia is made from barley, cinnamon, cardamon and sugar. It ferments naturally and the taste is sweet-sour.
The rest of the day I just lingered in historic Jeddah. I drank fresh cane juice mixed with lime juice. When the sun set and it became dark I had a bright yellow Arabic coffee and I was happy in my new Saudi sandals. I bargained for 60 percent of the original price and I wondered if it was a good deal or not.
I couldn’t find a Saudi restaurant so I went for a nasi rendang from Sumatra. Jeddah is a great destination. I feel that in ten years time there might be too many tourists but for the moment the place does not feel crowded.
I had to end my journey in Medina because my return flight was from Prince Mohammad Bin Abdulaziz Airport. This was a rather random choice I made in Amsterdam; I thought the name Medina sounded evocative. I hadn't realized that the city revolves around its religious sites. In fact, the ancient part of Medina no longer exists. The inner circle of the city is dedicated to the newly built Prophet's Mosque and is off-limits to non-Muslims.
Between Mecca, Jeddah and Medina lies the brand new Haramain High Speed Railway, just opened in 2018. I boarded the Spanish Talgo trains at King Abdulaziz International Airport in Jeddah and enjoyed a very comfortable and fast journey to Medina. After checking into my hotel, I took a Bolt taxi to a Yemenite restaurant for lunch, only to find it closed. I decided to walk instead. I bought some dates, but it was impossible to purchase just a few; the shop owner insisted that I buy more. Ultimately, I ended up with a huge bag of dates.
As I was walking, a white car slowed down to match my pace. I assumed it was an unsolicited taxi, but when I waved my hand, I noticed a young girl leaning out of the window, offering me a bottle of cold water. I thanked her and the man behind the wheel. According to the Prophet Muhammad, the reward for praying in the Prophet's Mosque in Medina is greater than that of one thousand prayers in any other mosque. Perhaps this also applies to good deeds done in Medina.
After checking into my hotel, I still held a romantic vision of an ancient city with an old souk to explore. However, upon arriving in the city center, it became clear that nothing old remained. All I could see were high-rise hotels and streams of umrah visitors pouring out of the hotels towards the Prophet's Mosque. I joined the pilgrims but after a few hundred meters, it was forbidden for non-muslims to continue. I felt completely alienated and, for a moment, wished I had stayed in Jeddah. However, while driving towards the center, I had also noticed how close Mount Uhud (جَبَل أُحُد) was. The next day, I could make it my goal to climb Mount Uhud.
The evening ended quite pleasant. I found another excellent Indian restaurant and ended the night drinking chai among Indian, or Pakistani, migrant workers.
Before I could hike Mount Uhud, I had to wait until around 5 PM to avoid the heat. I summoned a Bolt taxi to Al Noor Mall. When my taxi arrived, it wasn’t the usual Toyota Camry but a beaten-up Toyota Hilux pickup truck. “Nice Hilux,” I said, knocking on the dashboard. “Very strong car!” Abdullah replied, handing me a bottle of perfume to freshen up.
When we arrived at the shopping mall, he asked, “Dinner?” He meant “lunch,” and I agreed to eat together. He began driving in search of a restaurant. Abdullah was not a native of Medina; he was a retired policeman, and it took almost an hour before he found a good place to eat. During the ride, he asked if I was a Muslim. When I said I was a Christian, he transformed into a Jehovah’s Witness, insisting that I should follow the true path of Islam and not worship three gods. He was referring to the Trinity: God the Father, God the Son, and God the Holy Spirit. He then apologized, saying, “Please don’t feel bad.”
Once we arrived at the restaurant, we could focus on the food: a huge plate of basmati rice and the best goat meat I had ever tasted. I even got a piece of the liver. Abdullah taught me how to eat with my hand, which wasn’t easy. You shouldn't put your fingers too deep into your mouth. By the time we finished, I had rice all over my legs.
After lunch, Abdullah drove me to my original destination: Al Noor Mall. I tried to make it a paid taxi ride, but he refused. We drove for another 15 minutes to drop me off. He had just one request: I had to seriously consider Islam to save my soul; otherwise, I would end up in hell instead of in the garden.
Al Noor Mall mainly features big brands and was rather dull. I sipped Arabic coffee to pass the time, then discovered a cheaper mall just a 10-minute walk away. If my travel bag had been bigger, I would have bought several dallahs, the traditional Arabic coffee pots.
Mount Uhud is not just any mountain; it was the site of the second battle between Muhammad and the polytheists of his tribe, the Quraysh. At the foot of the mountain is the Sayed Al-Shuhada Mosque, built in 2017. The small hill in front of the mosque is known as Archers' Hill.
I planned to start my hike at 5 PM, but by 4:30 PM, I was bored waiting, so I set off with a handful of dates and three liters of water in my backpack. Mount Uhud stands at 1,077 meters above sea level, and starting from Medina, you need to climb roughly 300 meters, which isn't too challenging as far as mountains go. However, with midday temperatures reaching 43 degrees Celsius, you have to plan your hike wisely, as the heat can be dangerous.
Just after the city limits you will pass some ancient rock art. These can be found all over Saudi-Arabia.
Even at 5 PM, the heat was relentless, and I had to take a few breaks of a couple of minutes. During my third break, I began to feel nauseous, a sign of heatstroke. I sought refuge behind a rock to find some shade and took a twenty-minute break. After that, I felt better, and when I continued, the sun was low enough that I didn't need any more breaks. The view of Medina was amazing.
My white ghutra was comfortable in the sun. It really protects you from the heat. When I reached a good viewpoint, I stayed to watch the sunset. At a quarter past seven, it was time for the Maghreb prayer. It was fascinating to hear the call to prayer from all the mosques in the valley below. I wondered what would have happened if the polytheists from Mecca had pursued Muhammad further into the mountains. Then again, there is no archaeological evidence of the battle to begin with.
I had noticed an Indonesian restaurant at the start of my hike and was dreaming of bakso all the way down. I opted for the Bakso urat. It was good.
The area around my hotel.
Breakfast is usually very basic: a chapati, filled with egg, and a mint tea.
For my final day, I returned to the Prophet's Mosque, more properly known as Al-Masjid An-Nabawī (ٱلْمَسْجِد ٱلنَّبَوِي). According to Islamic history, this mosque is the second built by Muhammad and is the holiest site after Masjid al-Haram in Mecca. During the Ottoman period, the mosque was rebuilt several times, and it was only in 1805 that Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud took control of Medina. The Wahhabis demolished nearly every tomb, even stripping Muhammad's tomb of its gold and jeweled ornaments. In 1985, during the reign of King Fahd, the mosque was expanded again, leading to the demolition of many surrounding buildings.
Al-Masjid An-Nabawī before the umbrellas were placed.
At one point I suddenly realised there is a Starbucks and H&M located just a few hundred meters from the second holiest site in Islam. Umrah is big business but I was surprised to see Swedish and US global chains so close to a holy site.
The square in front of Al-Masjid An-Nabawi is called Medina Haram Piazza. In 2010 a total of 250 shading umbrellas were placed on the square at an eye watering cost of 4,7 billion riyals. I was allowed to walk as far as the green gate. The umbrellas are impressive.
The eastern part of Medina is one big construction site. All night dump trucks were passing my hotel. Apparently new high rise hotels will be build, connected to the airport by a new shuttle railway. Everything in the name of progress. It is clear that Medina is not on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Artist’s impression of the future of Medina.
My hotel in Medina.
For lunch I had a vegetable stew which was quite similar to a Moroccan tagine and a porridge made of possibly oat. A small cup of tomato salsa was served along with my meal. This salsa is usually served with biryani or mandi rice. The recipe is easy. Simply put the following raw ingredients in a food processor: 4 medium size tomatoes, 1 medium size onion, 4-5 green chillies, 1 cup fresh coriander leaves, 3-4 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp lemon juice, 1 tsp roasted cumin seeds, 1/4 tsp black pepper, 1/2 tsp salt.
In the afternoon I sheltered in my hotel room. The temperatures were really too hot to walk the streets. The lowest temperatures at night time were 30 degrees Celsius, so the nights were very pleasant.
My flight was for 5 am the next day, which meant I had to be at the airport in Medina at roughly 3 am. I tried to get a rest in my room before I had to take a midnight taxi to the airport. All I could hear were the dump trucks hobbling through the dusty road towards the construction site.
I already own a red checkered and white ghutrah (غُترَة) I bought in Jordan in the 1990s. On this trip I bought three extra. I would love to wear these in summer but the keffiyeh is so politicised at the moment people in Europe will not realise I am wearing Qatari or Saudi headdress.
I wandered into a migrant workers’ neighbourhood and had vegetarian Indian food for dinner: a chana dal I make myself in Amsterdam often and a mixed vegetable dish.
I had a connecting flight from Jeddah to Amsterdam. The Saudi Dreamliner was painted in NEOM livery. The NEOM project is a whole different story and one of world’s more crazier development projects. Criticising the project is one of the reasons MBS had Saudi journalist Jamal Khashoggi killed in Turkey.
This was a Plan B journey. I had initially planned to fly to Doha, Qatar, but realized my visit would coincide with Ramadan, which might not be the ideal time to visit. So, I bought a ticket to Lisbon and purchased a map of the Rota Vicentina, a network of walking paths in the southwest of Portugal. I was particularly interested in the Trilho dos Pescadores, or Fisherman’s Trail, a long-distance path stretching 226 kilometers. Due to work commitments, I hardly planned my trip beyond my plane ticket and only had the vague idea of walking as much of the Fisherman’s Trail as I could in a week.
I decided to start in Lagos, so I booked a last-minute train from Lisbon to Lagos via Tunes. I arrived in Lagos just as the sun was setting.
I woke up early in the morning and realised I couldn’t buy breakfast because it was Sunday morning. I started my hike on an empty stomach. At least the weather was beyond my expectations: a dry, sunny day of 23 degrees Celsius. The blue-green signs were easy to find and I soon realised I didn’t need my map.
After two and a half hours of walking I found a place, which served breakfast. It became clear that I was in the territory of British immigrants: the place served a full English breakfast and on the terrace a high percentage of pro-Brexit voters, considering the average age of the people around me (sixty percent of people aged 65 and over voted for Brexit). I chose the ‘vegan English breakfast’, which was a combination of avocado toast, mushrooms, hash browns and beans.
Breakfast in Luz.
Burgau
Burgau
After breakfast the day began in earnest. My spirits were high, the landscape impressive, and the path remained quite easy to walk. It wasn’t too busy. At one point the route would lead me right through the narrow paths of the tiny village called Burgau. It was almost 2 pm when I arrived in Salema, or around lunch time.
When I think of Portugal, I think of sardines. The six grilled sardines in Salema were served with boiled potatoes and a salad. I ordered a glass of white Vinho Verde, which is a Denominação de Origem Controlada, not a grape variety.
Lunch in Salema.
I had to decide where to sleep that day and based on my progress so far, I booked a hotel in Sagres. That turned out to be a mistake.
It was 2:30 pm when I continued my walk and suddenly time flew by much faster. The path became more challenging and my progress slowed down. Two hours later I was looking at Google Maps and realised I probably wouldn’t reach Sagres before dark. I chatted with two Dutch women, trying to asses the walking time to Sagres, when they asked me where I started in the morning. “Lagos? You are walking three sections in one day!”.
Then I realised the Fisherman’s Trail was divided in day sections. Two sections a day is entirely possible when you start early, but three sections was a bit too much, especially since I hadn’t walked long distance in years. By then my big toe felt as if I was developing a blister under my toe nail.
I was able to make it to Sagres and walk the last hour in the dark, but I also had to save my toe nail for the rest of the week. I left the trail and walked to a road, from where I could summon a Bolt taxi. Later I noticed that the section between Salema and Sagres is marked as ‘difficult’, because of the distance and ascent and decent.
End of day one in Sagres.
In Sagres I settled for tapas instead of diner: ‘caldo verde’ cabbage soup, bacalhau com grão (chickpeas and cod), feijoada de buzios (whelk and bean stew) and azeitonas.
Day two of the Trilho dos Pescadores. After a breakfast of torrada com tomate, coffee with milk and a coffee espresso I headed to the southwesternmost part of Europe.
Before leaving Sagres you walk past a statue of Infante Dom Henrique, o Navegador (4 March 1394 – 13 November 1460), or known in English as Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry was a son of King John I of Portugal. Around that time the Portuguese developed a new type of light ship called the caravel, which enabled them to explore beyond the known territories. Soon the Portuguese navigators mastered the volta do mar, the predictable wind patterns and currents of the Atlantic Ocean. During his lifetime Henry explored Madeira, the Azores and the West African coast. This laid the foundation for later explorations by Portugal, and Vasco da Gama reaching India in 1498.
When the trail leaves Sagres it leads to finis terrae or the end of the known sea called mare incognitum. The landscape changes. Gone are the trees. Presumably because of the battering of the winds of the North Atlantic. The cliffs remain high, up to 75 metres, but the surface of the plain is flat. Only hardy plants survive.
This is the southwesternmost part of Europe. The Cape St. Vincent is named after 3rd century Vincent of Saragossa. I think the Rota Vicentina is named after him. He was martyred when he refused to consign Scripture to the fire.
This promontory was considered sacred long before Christianity. The ancient Greeks dedicated here a temple to Heracles and near Vila do Bispo around 300 menhirs have been identified, making it sacred ground in Neolithic times. Today this tip of land sports a powerful light house, its light beam can be seen from 60 kilometers distance, and a snack stand selling the ‘last Bratwurst until America’, which is factual I guess. I ordered an espresso coffee at another stand and walked on.
It seems a German philosopher walked the trail before me. I could almost hear the voice of Werner Herzog in his Bavarian accent: “Would we endure Paradise?” I wondered if I could find the direct quote but Google only offered Gertrude Stein’s: “Wenn du das Paradies ertragen kannst, dann komm nach Mallorca.” But she was American.
For many hours the trail traversed a barren land. Yet, the Sagres Biogenetic Reserve, created by the European Council in 1988, is home to many endemic species.
Portuguese sailing routes (red) during Henry the Navigator's lifetime.
I arrived in Vila do Bispo (population: 5,717) in the afternoon. Because it was too early to check into my booked room, I ordered some cheese, olives and wine in a local tapas place. I didn’t specify the wine and subsequently was served a half liter pitcher. I had it replaced for a glass (‘copo de vinho tinto’). When I returned an hour later for diner, the kitchen was closed.
The only restaurant which was open had lulinhas fritas (fried squids) on the menu, and not much else. That evening my leg muscles were quite close to developing muscle cramp, so I stayed awake until 3 am trying to prevent this earth shattering pain. I managed maybe four hours of sleep before I commenced the third day of my walk the next morning.
This section was one of the more beautiful sections. After an initial uneventful few kilometres the path veers toward the ocean over many rolling hills. There is no shade. When the trails hits the cliffs, the views are spectacular.
I try to bring a book on each journey to fill my time when waiting at the airport, or on a train. I thought the walking travelogue The Places in Between by Rory Stewart was appropriate. Stewart chronologies one of the crazier long distance walks across Afghanistan in 2002, mere months after the War in Afghanistan (2001–2021). He is lucky to be alive. Now I want to hike in Central Asia.
Against the cold and the sun I just brought my Moroccan headscarf. I wanted to travel very light and managed to keep my pack under 4,4 kilos on the weighing scales at the airport. Add 1,5 kilo of water and my pack was about 6 kilos on the trail. I normally don’t take selfies, but it was the only way to check if I was wearing the scarf properly. The knot on my shoulder should have been on the back of my head. I need to practice more.
The village Carrapateira is quite small. It has a local place serving coffee, toast and croissants, but there is no local restaurant open for diner. Just a tourist restaurant in a neighbourhood of holiday homes. Dinner was mediocre and relatively expensive. My toe was pretty painful and I bought a pair of flip-flops so I wouldn’t need to wear my heavy leather Hanwag ‘double stitched’ hiking shoes in the evening and early mornings.
I wanted to leave early, but the local coffee place was closed until 9. I couldn’t start my day without breakfast, because there would be no possibility to buy anything for almost 20 kilometres. I spent an hour and half cat spotting until breakfast.
After four hours I unexpectedly walked past a small bar like place. It must have been quite new, since it wasn’t mentioned in the description of this section of the trail. Of course I ordered a red wine.
In Arrifana I booked a cheap bed in a dormitory and found a restaurant serving arroz de lingueirão – razor clam rice – with coriander and chilli but no tomato. I had to give it 10 out of 10. It was just so perfect. Good sour notes.
Arrifana is a hotspot for surfers. On the top of the cliff several vans were parked, many with German license plates. I loved the van from Siegburg (SU), which had the following plate: SU RF 2406. A surf dude from Spain was softly playing electric guitar, filling the air with lingering music. Time slowed down.
Because I had to catch a flight back Saturday afternoon, this was to be the last section of the Fishermen’s Trail. Considering the fact that in Aljezur there is a bus connection back to Lagos, this wasn’t too bad. Not every village has a bus connection.
This section of the trail had quite a lot of kilometres consisting of very soft sand. The landscape was basically a dune landscape. All these days I had been walking within the boundaries of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. I had seen stork in their natural habitat flying off the cliffs toward the ocean. Quite a different bird from the storks I am used to in The Netherlands.
Somebody told me that during high season you cannot drive a camper this close to the ocean. Not sure if this is true.
The last day was overall very sunny but in the last hour of my five day hike it started to rain for the first time. Just before Aljezur I passed by this unremarkable stone structure. According to the sign it was water spring of islamic origin and dated back to the 10th century.
Population: 5,884.
Since it was the last day of my walk I treated myself to a fish restaurant. I had hoped to taste goose barnacles, no matter the price, but the patron of Cervejaria Mar (address: R. da Escola 13, 8670-055, Aljezur) told me the ocean wasn’t favourable for harvesting goose barnacles at the moment. You can’t argue with that.
Most dishes on the menu were for two persons or more, so I had to settle for the Arroz de Tamboril (monkfish rice), which was a huge one-pot meal of fresh monkfish, with a chicken like texture, sea shells and prawns. It might not look very big on the photos but I could hardly finish the pot by myself. For a dish like this you must use Carolino, a typical Portuguese rice variety, for the best results. It’s a starchy rice variety, which makes a creamy sauce.
After finishing the monkfish rice I asked for a local digestif. The patron’s eyes lit up and he came back with an earthenware cup of medronho. I don’t drink strong spirits very often but this was both potent (50%) and had a distinctly pleasant taste and smell. Apparently it is made from fruits of the arbutus tree. Until recently it was made like a moonshine by local farmers.
On my way back I had half a day to spend in Lisboa between arriving by train at the Entrecampos Station and boarding time. I took a metro to Praça do Comércio, which, apparently, is the most important square of the city. It looks nice enough, but the area is flocked by tourists. I hated it.
Within fifteen minutes I jumped in the metro again in search for something more local. I ended up in the neighbourhood Moscavide, which I traveled through on the first day, because at the beginning of my trip my train to Tunes left at Gare do Oriente.
On the first day I had lunch in a small restaurant near Gare do Oriente: freshly grilled BBQ chicken, rice, fries and salad for just € 7,50 or € 9,00 including a glass of red wine.
Gare do Oriente
I had lunch again in Moscavide in a local bar. I ordered a random soup and was served soup and a bread roll filled with meat. I guess the barman figured that just a soup wasn’t enough. I was so mesmerised by the people around me I forgot to make photos of the scene. There were women, small children, tattooed men with bad teeth, an African man was sitting at my table, stoic like a Buddha, amidst the chaos of crying children and chatting men. Moscavide is my kind of place.