Dionysus

It was time for another attempt at a long hike. This time I fat biked to Chalki (Χαλκί) , also known as Halki, and found the footpath to Moni. The distance is roughly 5 kilometres. Moni is about 500 meters above sea level and it’s a very easy path when you’re fit.

Hiking from Chalkio to Moni.

In Moni the cats have their own littles houses. The village is known for its textiles and I had several women trying to sell me a piece of cloth. But my small two room apartment in Amsterdam doesn't hold any space anymore for souvenirs. I had to brush the ladies off.

There are a few taverns in Moni. I ordered a Freddo Espresso. The interior had a mermaid painting and a small photograph of Karl Marx. Travelling off-season, I was the only tourist in Moni around noon.

On my way down I was followed by a Cyclops.

Back in Chalki I went to the same restaurant for lunch. I choose the eggplant in tomato sauce. It looked amazing and would have tasted very good.

It was one of those times when the plague became invisible. This silence, this death of colours and movement, could belong to summer as much as to the pestilence
— Albert Camus, The Plague

Yria Sanctuary of Dionysus

In the morning I cycled to the sanctuary of Dionysus. It was striking how agricultural the land is. These are the fertile plains of Naxos. Leading to the sanctuary there is no asphalted road, just a dirt road. Plenty of green potato fields. The autumn is the best season for Naxian potatoes.

The existence of a Temple of Dionysus was mentioned by Herodotus but the location was forgotten over the many centuries. In the 1960s archaeologists studied the Byzantine church on the plains next to the Chóra and did test drills in a field near this church. They found the missing temple. But it would take decades, until the late 1980s, before the temple area was excavated by Greek and German archaeologists. They basically found pillar bases and wall foundations of several temples built on the same location spanning two thousand years.

The current site shows the partial reconstruction of some pillars and the foundation of the temple. It is thought the place of worship dates back to the 14th century BC (Mycenean era), which is very long ago. From around 850 to 750 BC, in the Geometric period, four buildings were constructed and in 580 BC (Archaic period) the last monumental temple was build.

Overlay of a drawing of the 580 BC temple on the current remains in the background. The roof, including the roof tiles, were made out of marble, which was an innovation at that time. Due to political developments Naxos lost its power by 477 BC and the temples of Dionysus, Demeter and the unfinished temple Apollo were the only temples built on Naxos.

In the afternoon I realised I hadn’t even taken a swim in the sea. I had to head back to my Villa on my fat bike to get my swimming trunks and a towel. The importance of traveling with a towel cannot be understated. Every interstellar hitchhiker knowns this. “You can lie on it on the brilliant marble-sanded beaches of Santraginus V, inhaling the heady sea vapours”.

The crystal clear blue water evokes eternity on a calm day. The tiny ripples seem to be suspended in time. Nothing is moving, not even my mind. I had lunch in an almost empty restaurant. Tables and chairs were waiting for better times. For me, the empty chairs were an inspiration for my future plans. I want to end up with a tiny outdoor space I can call my own, dedicated to a small table and at least two chairs to host a future female friend. That’s all want from life at this point. To eat with somebody.

In the clear water I was surrounded by at least a dozen of young saddled seabream. They seemed to want to nibble on my legs and were not afraid of me. These little fish seem to feel invincible.

Despite the goats reminding me of the goat stew I saw one the menu, I was too tired to visit the Paradise tavern in the evening. I bought sheep’s yoghurt and kefir and spent some time reading Camus’ The Plague. I had to chuckle when I read how civil servant Joseph Grand was polishing the first sentence of his book and failing miserably.

Triumphantly, he read out the sentence: ‘On a fine May morning, a slender woman was riding a resplendent sorrel mare through the avenues full of flowers of the Bois de Boulogne.’ But when it was read aloud, the repetition of ‘of’ at the end of the sentence sounded ugly and Grand stumbled a little over it. He sat down, seeming crushed.
— The Plague, page 104

Third and final chapter: Zeus, and Apollo I guess

Naxos / Νάξος

Ἀνερρίφθω κύβος . The dice is cast. My ticket to Athens is booked. From the airport I will head straight to the port of Piraeus to catch a boat to Naxos. Thanks Tony. The reason I stumbled upon Naxos was Anthony Bourdain’s 2016 episode of Parts Unknown filmed on Naxos.

For inspiration I’m drawn to Bourdain. Is it these well written one-liners? "Is it worse to be someplace awful when you're by yourself or someplace really nice that you can't share with anyone?"

And then at 61 years old he took his own life.

It will be one more journey contemplating being alone. Great hiking trails too.

Medina

I had to end my journey in Medina because my return flight was from Prince Mohammad Bin Abdulaziz Airport in Medina. This was a pretty random choice I made in Amsterdam. I thought the name Medina sounded evocative. I had not realised that the city revolves around the religious sites. In fact, the ancient part of Medina doesn’t exist anymore. The inner circle of the city is dedicated to a newly built Prophet's Mosque and is off limits for non-muslims.

Between Mecca, Jeddah and Medina lies a brand new Haramain High Speed Railway, just opened in 2018. I boarded the Spanish Talgo trains at King Abdulaziz International Airport in Jeddah and had a very comfortable fast journey to Medina. After checking into my hotel I took a Bolt taxi to a Yemenite restaurant for lunch. It seemed closed and I started walking instead. I bought some dates but it was impossible to buy just a few. The shop owner didn’t let me. I ended up buying a huge bag of dates.

As I was walking a white car slowed down and matched my pace. I assumed it was an unsolicited taxi and as I waived my hand I noticed a young girl was leaning out of the window offering me a bottle of cold water. I thanked her, and the man behind the wheel. The reward for praying in the Prophet's Mosque in Medina is better than one thousand prayers in any other mosque, according to the Prophet Muhammad. Maybe this also applies to good deeds done in Medina.

After checking into my hotel I still had a romantic idea of an ancient city with an old souq to roam about. When I arrived in the city centre it became clear that nothing old remains. All I could see were high rise hotels and streams of umrah visitors pouring out of the hotels towards the Prophet's Mosque. I joined the pilgrims but after a few hundred meters it was forbidden for non-muslims. I felt completely alienated and for a moment I wished I had stayed in Jeddah. But driving towards the centre I had also seen how close Mount Uhud جَبَل أُحُد, was. The next day I could make it my goal to climb Mount Uhud.

The evening ended quite pleasant. I found another excellent Indian restaurant and ended the night drinking chai among Indian, or Pakistani, migrant workers.

My taxi driver Abdullah

Before I could hike Mount Uhud I first had to wait until about 5 pm because of the heat. I summoned a Bolt taxi to the Al Noor Mall. When my taxi arrived it wasn’t the usual Toyota Camry but a beaten up Toyota Hilux pickup truck. “Nice Hilux”, I said, while knocking on the dashboard. “Very strong car!”, Abdullah exclaimed while he gave me a bottle of perfume to freshen up. When we arrived at the shopping mal he asked: “dinner?" He meant “lunch” and I agreed to eat together. He started driving in search for a restaurant. He wasn’t native to Medina, he was retired police man, and it took almost an hour before he found a good lunch place. During the ride he asked me if I was a muslim. When I said I was a christian he turned into a Jehova’s witness. I had to follow the true path of islam and not worship three gods. He was referring to the trinity: God the Father, God the Son and God the Holy Spirit. He apologised and said “Please don’t feel bad”.

When we arrived at the restaurant we could focus on the food: a huge plate of basmati rice and the best goat meat I ever tasted. I got a piece of the liver as well. Abdullah learned me the technique how to eat with one’s hand. It is not so easy. You should not put your fingers too deep into your mouth. When we finished I had rice all over my legs.

After lunch Abdullah drove me to the original destination: the Al Noor Mall. I tried to make it into a paid taxi ride but he refused. He drove for another 15 minuted to drop me off. He had just one request. I had to seriously think about islam to save my soul. Otherwise I would end up in hell instead of in the garden.

The Al Noor Mall has mainly big brands and is very boring. I drank Arabic coffee to pass some time and then found a cheaper mall on 10 minutes walking distance. If my travel bag was bigger I would have bought so many dallahs, the traditional Arabic coffee pot.


Mount Uhud جَبَل أُحُد,

Mount Uhud is not just any mountain. It was the site of the second battle between Muhammad and the polytheists of his tribe of Quraysh. On the foot of the mountain is the Sayed Al-Shuhada Mosque built in 2017. The small hill in front of the mosque is the Archers' Hill.

I wanted to start my hike at 5 pm but at 4:30 pm I was bored waiting so I started walking with a handful of dates and three liters of water in my backpack. Mount Uhud is 1.077 m high, but this is above sea level. Starting in Medina you just have to climb roughly 300 meters, which is nothing as far as mountains go. But with midday temperatures of 43 degrees Celsius you have to plan your hike smartly. Heat can be a killer.

Just after the city limits you will pass some ancient rock art. These can be found all over Saudi-Arabia.

Even at 5 pm the heat was relentless. I had to take a few breaks of a couple of minutes. But during my third break I felt nauseous, which is a sign of heatstroke. I hid behind a rock to get some shade and took a twenty minute break. After that I was okay and when I continued the sun was low enough not to need any more breaks. The view of Medina was amazing.

My white ghutra was pretty comfortable in the sun. It really does protect you from the heat. When I reached a good viewpoint I waited for the sun to set. At a quarter past seven it was Maghreb prayer time. It was interesting to hear the call of prayer of all the mosques in the valley below. I wondered what would have happend if the polytheists from Mecca would have pursued Mohammed further into the mountains. Then again, there is no archeological evidence for the battle to begin with.

I had noticed an Indonesian restaurant at the start of my hike and was dreaming of bakso all the way down. I opted for the Bakso urat. It was good.


My final day

The area around my hotel.

Breakfast is usually very basic: a chapati, filled with egg, and a mint tea.

Al-Masjid An-Nabawi

For my final day I returned to the Prophet's Mosque, more properly called Al-Masjid An-Nabawī (ٱلْمَسْجِد ٱلنَّبَوِي). According to islamic history this mosque is the second mosque built by Mohammed and is the holiest site after Masjid al-Haram in Mecca. During the Ottoman period the mosque was rebuilt several times. It was only in 1805 Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud took control over Medina. The Wahhabis demolished nearly every tomb. Even Muhammad's tomb was stripped of its gold and jewel ornaments. During the reign of King Fahd in 1985 the mosque was expanded again, and many surrounding buildings were bulldozed.

Al-Masjid An-Nabawī before the umbrellas were placed.

At one point I suddenly realised there is a Starbucks and H&M located just a few hundred meters from the second holiest site in Islam. Umrah is big business but I was surprised to see Swedish and US global chains so close to a holy site.

The square in front of Al-Masjid An-Nabawi is called Medina Haram Piazza. In 2010 a total of 250 shading umbrellas were placed on the square at an eye watering cost of 4,7 billion riyals. I was allowed to walk as far as the green gate. The umbrellas are impressive.

The eastern part of Medina is one big construction site. All night dump trucks were passing my hotel. Apparently new high rise hotels will be build, connected to the airport by a new shuttle railway. Everything in the name of progress. It is clear that Medina is not on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Artist’s impression of the future of Medina.

My hotel in Medina.

 

For lunch I had a vegetable stew which was quite similar to a Moroccan tagine and a porridge made of possibly oat. A small cup of tomato salsa was served along with my meal. This salsa is usually served with biryani or mandi rice. The recipe is easy. Simply put the following raw ingredients in a food processor: 4 medium size tomatoes, 1 medium size onion, 4-5 green chillies, 1 cup fresh coriander leaves, 3-4 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp lemon juice, 1 tsp roasted cumin seeds, 1/4 tsp black pepper, 1/2 tsp salt.

In the afternoon I sheltered in my hotel room. The temperatures were really too hot to walk the streets. The lowest temperatures at night time were 30 degrees Celsius, so the nights were very pleasant.

My flight was for 5 am the next day, which meant I had to be at the airport in Medina at roughly 3 am. I tried to get a rest in my room before I had to take a midnight taxi to the airport. All I could hear were the dump trucks hobbling through the dusty road towards the construction site.

I already own a red checkered and white ghutrah (غُترَة) I bought in Jordan in the 1990s. On this trip I bought three extra. I would love to wear these in summer but the keffiyeh is so politicised at the moment people in Europe will not realise I am wearing Qatari or Saudi headdress.

I wandered into a migrant workers’ neighbourhood and had vegetarian Indian food for dinner: a chana dal I make myself in Amsterdam often and a mixed vegetable dish.

I had a connecting flight from Jeddah to Amsterdam. The Saudi Dreamliner was painted in NEOM livery. The NEOM project is a whole different story and one of world’s more crazier development projects. Criticising the project is one of the reasons MBS had Saudi journalist Jamal Khashoggi killed in Turkey.

Historic Jeddah

I had planned to visit the ancient rock art in the Ha’il region, 90 km northwest of the city of Ha’il, the rock art is up to 10.000 years old. But according to Google the UNESCO-site was temporarily closed. I reached out to companies who provide tours to the rock art and they answered there were no tours available. I assumed in the summer season the desert was simply too hot for a visit. I diverted my plans to the port city of Jeddah. Historic Jeddah, the Gate to Makkah, is another UNESCO World Heritage site.

When early on in Islam Mecca became an important religious city. Jeddah became the port of Mecca during the reign of the 3rd Caliph Othman ibn Affan. After the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 Jeddah flourished like never before. The Suez Canal linked Europe and Asia with modern steamboats. The merchants of Jeddah built multi-storey decorated houses, which still exist today. It is clear the old city center is still being renovated. Some older buildings are boarded-up behind fences marked “Ministry of Culture”.

The people of Jeddah love their cats. There are cats feeder stations all over the place.

Modern Jeddah is still very much a merchant city. The amount of shops is impressive. The main import partner of Saudi-Arabia is China, which shows. Roaming the streets were groups of men from Pakistan, Bangladesh and India, all in national attire. The whole scene reminded me of Deep Space 9 space station.

The first night I had some trouble finding a restaurant because in the ancient part of the city there is little food to find. I had to walk for a bit to find an Indian restaurant, which caters for Indian migrant workers. It was incredible cheap for 3 euro including a can of cola and a bottle of water. Around the corner was the Bangladesh Store. These neighbourhoods are populated by mostly male migrant workers from Asia. You don’t see Saudis or women.


الجمعه Friday

My second day in Jeddah was a Friday. This meant that in the morning everything was closed. On Friday families have lunch together and it is only after lunch businesses start opening. This posed a problem for my breakfast. After searching all streets I found a convenience store. But they only had processed food of the worst kind. Because I was very hungry I settled for a couple of cheese puffs. A cat begged for a piece of my cheese puff but I deemed cheese puffs too unhealthy for a cat.

Then I really wanted to drink coffee, but again, no open coffee place to be found. While walking I met a man from Yemen and he took the task upon himself to find a coffee place for me. He asked many guards along the way and we finally found a hidden place in a worn down apartment block. The little shop also sold bread rolls. I tried to pay for his bread roll but he refused. We sat together while I drank my coffee. When we parted ways I was happy I could give him a small bottle of water, which he first refused, but he took the bottle after I pressed him to take it. It was all very polite.

Some parts of ancient Jeddah are beautifully green. And again, cats all around.


Jeddah Central Fish Market

The fish market of Jeddah is one of the best I ever visited. The fish is so fresh some are still alive. It is also a great place to shelter from the heat. When I wanted to eat lunch I looked for a fish restaurant. I was told I had to buy a fish and bring it to the restaurant. A young guy in his twenties went along in my search for a fish.

The restaurant had only two ways of preparing fish: frying or grilling. I needed a fish suitable for one of the two methods. I was told hamor هَامُّوْر, was the best fish for deep frying. Hamor is a type of grouper. Next to the hamor were harid, which is a parrotfish. I decided to buy two hamor instead of one. The weight was one kilo so I paid 40 riyal.

After paying for the fish they needed to be cleaned. There is a special fish cleaning service at the fish market. The price you pay is based on the weight of the fish and I only paid a couple of riyal.

Dhuhr midday prayer time

After my fish were cleaned the guy helping me got a bit agitated. Apparently he realised it was almost prayer time, and the kitchen would be closed very soon. We ran through the fish market with my freshly cleaned fish but were just too late. I had all day so I didn’t mind. At one point he seemed to suggest we were going to pray together but I thought: how can I pray with a fish? I waited in the restaurant and hoped my fish stayed cold enough not to spoil. In the end the prayer lasted just over half an hour.

After prayer the guy came back for me to help me navigate the ordering proces. Frying the fish cost 15 riyal and the sayadia (=fishermans catch) rice cost 12 riyal, a total of 27 riyal or about 6,75 euro. Before I could pay, the guy took out his phone and paid for me. I was a little stunned. I invited him to eat together but he had to get back to work and he disappeared.

Back in the old center I stumbled upon this Sobia سوبيا bar. This sobia is made from barley, cinnamon, cardamon and sugar. It ferments naturally and the taste is sweet-sour.

The rest of the day I just lingered in historic Jeddah. I drank fresh cane juice mixed with lime juice. When the sun set and it became dark I had a bright yellow Arabic coffee and I was happy in my new Saudi sandals. I bargained for 60 percent of the original price and I wondered if it was a good deal or not.

I couldn’t find a Saudi restaurant so I went for a nasi rendang from Sumatra. Jeddah is a great destination. I feel that in ten years time there might be too many tourists but for the moment the place does not feel crowded.

Al-Ahsa Oasis

I have to admit I had completely missed the 2017 diplomatic conflict between Saudi-Arabia and Qatar. What I assumed was a 3 hour bustrip between Doha and Al-Hofuf turned out to be an international flight between Doha and Riyadh followed by a two hour train journey between Riyadh and Al-Hofuf on the 1980s Damman-Riyadh line.

Dammam–Riyadh line

I came to Al-Hofuf to see the Al Ahsa oasis, since 2018 protected as a cultural landscape by UNESCO. With 2,5 million date palm trees it is the largest oasis in the world. I had hoped to study the water management a bit, but there was no time for this. I just had one day. The oasis is so big you have to take taxis to go from one location to the other.

Al-Qarah Mountain جَبَل ٱلْقَارَة Jabal Al-Qārah

Within the oasis is Al-Qarah Mountain, which is a mesa of about 75 metres high, which has caves formed by, mostly water, erosion. The inside temperatures are very pleasant and for this reason the caves were inhabited since ancient times. Now the caves have been turned into a tourist attraction called The Land of Civilisation. I was the only visitor that morning.

Before the caves were open I bought some dates for breakfast. I love the practice of replacing the pits with an almond. I was never a bit fan of dates but after having eaten dates in Saudi-Arabia I have become a fan. You just need to buy quality dates.

Entrance to the caves.

People inside Al-Qarah Mountain, 1924 A.D.

Before entering the caves I was led through a small exhibition about the history of islam. This is Saudi-Arabia flexing its soft power muscle. The host spoke perfect English and at the end I was handed a bag with some gift items: two paper cups with Arabic coffee and dates (these came in very handy as breakfast in my hotel room), an English translation of the Quran and some Vision 2030 leaflets.

Al Khalifa Heritage Museum متحف الخليفة التراثي

Once upon a time the oasis was the only place in Saudi-Arabia where rice was grown. But in 1938 petroleum was discovered near Dammam. Today the largest oil field - Ghawar Field - is located in Al-Ahsa Governorate, resulting in the rapid modernization of the region. The tiny Al Khalifa Heritage Museum is a testament to that process. I was the only visitor that day.

The oasis has a total of 2,5 million date palm trees. I understand the date farms are privately owned and the total production is 100 thousand tons of dates per year. After visiting Al-Qarah Mountain and the heritage museum I spent the rest of the day roaming through the date farms. Those palm trees are quite beautiful.

Source: Analyzing the Spatial Correspondence between Different Date Fruit Cultivars and Farms’ Cultivated Areas, Case Study: Al-Ahsa Oasis, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/12/11/5728

I had planned to go to the barber during my trip. Still, the choice of this particular barber was quite random. I took a taxi ride to a كبسة kabsah restaurant but when I arrived it was take-away only. I started walking feeling a bit lost when I walked past a barber. Without thinking I walked in and discovered they didn’t speak English, or Arabic. They were Turkish. I did understand they were advising me to paint my graying beard black and from that moment I just nodded at every suggestion. The whole process took one and a half hours and half way I even looked like a smurf. I paid 100 riyals which wasn’t too bad for the amount of time they spent on me.

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

This was not my most environmentally friendly journey. To get from Al-Hofuf to Jeddah I had to backtrack by train to Riyadh and had to choose between a 14 hour bus ride or a one and a half hour flight. Of course the train station is located in the south of Riyad and the airport in the north, so I had to take the 50 kilometre taxi ride again. I did reach my hotel in Jeddah before 4 pm the same day.

EMD SD50 diesel locomotive on the Dammam–Riyadh line. The line was opened. in 1981. There is also a second Dammam–Riyadh line via Haradh, which is only used for freight.

Doha

Few destinations I have anticipated like the city of Doha. The last time I left Doha it was a town of 80.000 people, in 2024 the population is 1,2 million people, barely bigger than Amsterdam. Doha is not a huge metropole, it is a human scale city. I had booked a hotel walking distance from the old Souq Waqif, which was built in the late 19th to early 20th century.

Souq Waqif سوق واقف

In 1969 we didn't live far from the souq and when I sat down for breakfast I listened to the music from the vintage radio on display, looked at the morning sunlight, smelled the cardamon from my coffee and felt completely at peace. My sensory experience was likely the same my parents experienced 55 years ago, although I never heard them rave about Arabic coffee. My father claims he didn’t drink it.

Visiting Doha, or any Arab Gulf nation, in the end of May is considered off-season. The temperatures are reaching 43 degrees Celsius midday and most tourists consider that too hot. I wasn’t bothered by it. Besides, in Doha you can feel a cool sea breeze, which makes the temperature feel like just below 40 degrees.

Souq Waqif on a postcard, late 1960s.

Qatari coffee

Breakfast in Souq Waqif. Unsweetened Arabic coffee and a simple chapati, which can be filled with egg, cheese, or both. The Souq is a good place to buy spices, kitchenware or clothing. I did buy a Qatari handmade agal with tassels. I am not sure when to wear it outside the Arab world.

Katara Cultural Village

Katara is like a village within Doha. It was opened in 2010. The only reason I visited Katara was because it was highlighted on the inboard flight entertainment on Qatar Airways. It is not a place for me. It is supposed to reflect the country's cultural and architectural heritage, but all I could see were distasteful buildings. But apparently it is a place where many cultural festivities are held, so I should not judge too soon.

The beaches of Katara all seem to be private. I was was chased away by friendly security guards three times before I gave up. You can’t touch the sand.

One non-alcoholic drink I learned to love was a mint-lime drink.

Doha Metro الدوحة

The Doha Metro was opened in 2019 but five years on, still looks like brand new. There are three different compartments one each train: family, general and gold. The family section is used by women, the gold compartment is accessible for anybody who wants to spent the extra money on a journey and a gold membership card. All Japanese built trains are driverless.

Museum of Islamic Art

The MIA (Museum of Islamic Art) is definitely worth a vist. The building was designed by Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei and opened in 2008. It was newly renovated in 2022 and therefore looks like brand new. The collection is very broad and spans all three continents (Asia, Africa and Europe) and 1400 years of islamic influence.

What was done was worthwhile
— Iraq, probably Basra. Abbasid period, 9th century CE

Folio belonging to 9th Century Blue Quran written in Kufic script. This Quran was probably produced in Tunisia or Spain, although its exact origin is unknown. During the Ottoman Empire the 600 folios were scattered and many pages ended up in museums all over the world. The indigo-coloured parchment is more beautiful in real life. Photos don’t do justice to the original.

Al Wakrah الوكرة

Al Wakrah is a city of 90.000 inhabitants just south of Doha. It is reached by taking the red metro line to the final station called Al Wakrah. Then you can either take a local bus or a taxi to Souq Waqif Al Wakra. This might look like a restored old souq, it is actually completely newly designed with heritage features. It is a fantasy, but I have to admit, it is done with great taste.

Iced karkadé

Camel patrol on Al Wakrah beachfront while I was sipping on my iced hibiscus drink, called كَركَديه karkadé in Arabic. I went to Al Wakrah every day just before sunset because it is such a relaxed quiet place to be.

A dallah with Qatari coffee and dates. I like this way of serving coffee. A tea light keeps the coffee hot and you sip tiny cups. This is much more relaxed than having to finish a cup of coffee before it gets cold.

Al Wakrah fishing harbour

Al Wakrah has a small fishing harbour which is not accessible for non authorised persons. I bullied myself past the security guard pretending I was meeting somebody and I was in. I was a little amazed to see the wooden dhows are still used for fishing. Of course the dhows are motorised now and the crew is Bangladeshi or Indian. Judging by the catch a dhow is typically specialised in one type of fish.

In the souq of Al Wakrah there are ubiquitous grilled fish restaurants. When ordering you can choose how you want the fish spiced, Arabic with no chilli, or Indian with plenty of chili. The grilled fish is served with mandi rice and generally of good quality. I had the sea bass. ‘Mandi’ has its origins in Yemen. It is basically made by cooking the basmati rice in a spiced meat stock.

Back in Doha, the city really comes alive at night time. You can take a boat trip on a dhow towards the West Bay and its colourful high-rise buildings.

Trilho dos Pescadores - Reaching Aljezur

Arrifana » Aljezur 17,1 km, ascent 223 m, descent 178 m

Because I had to catch a flight back Saturday afternoon, this was to be the last section of the Fishermen’s Trail. Considering the fact that in Aljezur there is a bus connection back to Lagos, this wasn’t too bad. Not every village has a bus connection.

This section of the trail had quite a lot of kilometres consisting of very soft sand. The landscape was basically a dune landscape. All these days I had been walking within the boundaries of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. I had seen stork in their natural habitat flying off the cliffs toward the ocean. Quite a different bird from the storks I am used to in The Netherlands.

Somebody told me that during high season you cannot drive a camper this close to the ocean. Not sure if this is true.

The last day was overall very sunny but in the last hour of my five day hike it started to rain for the first time. Just before Aljezur I passed by this unremarkable stone structure. According to the sign it was water spring of islamic origin and dated back to the 10th century.

Aljezur

Population: 5,884.

Since it was the last day of my walk I treated myself to a fish restaurant. I had hoped to taste goose barnacles, no matter the price, but the patron of Cervejaria Mar (address: R. da Escola 13, 8670-055, Aljezur) told me the ocean wasn’t favourable for harvesting goose barnacles at the moment. You can’t argue with that.

Most dishes on the menu were for two persons or more, so I had to settle for the Arroz de Tamboril (monkfish rice), which was a huge one-pot meal of fresh monkfish, with a chicken like texture, sea shells and prawns. It might not look very big on the photos but I could hardly finish the pot by myself. For a dish like this you must use Carolino, a typical Portuguese rice variety, for the best results. It’s a starchy rice variety, which makes a creamy sauce.

After finishing the monkfish rice I asked for a local digestif. The patron’s eyes lit up and he came back with an earthenware cup of medronho. I don’t drink strong spirits very often but this was both potent (50%) and had a distinctly pleasant taste and smell. Apparently it is made from fruits of the arbutus tree. Until recently it was made like a moonshine by local farmers.


Lisboa Moscavide

On my way back I had half a day to spend in Lisboa between arriving by train at the Entrecampos Station and boarding time. I took a metro to Praça do Comércio, which, apparently, is the most important square of the city. It looks nice enough, but the area is flocked by tourists. I hated it.

Within fifteen minutes I jumped in the metro again in search for something more local. I ended up in the neighbourhood Moscavide, which I traveled through on the first day, because at the beginning of my trip my train to Tunes left at Gare do Oriente.

On the first day I had lunch in a small restaurant near Gare do Oriente: freshly grilled BBQ chicken, rice, fries and salad for just € 7,50 or € 9,00 including a glass of red wine.

Gare do Oriente

I had lunch again in Moscavide in a local bar. I ordered a random soup and was served soup and a bread roll filled with meat. I guess the barman figured that just a soup wasn’t enough. I was so mesmerised by the people around me I forgot to make photos of the scene. There were women, small children, tattooed men with bad teeth, an African man was sitting at my table, stoic like a Buddha, amidst the chaos of crying children and chatting men. Moscavide is my kind of place.

Trilho dos Pescadores - Walking North

Vila do Bispo » Carrapateira 15.3 km, ascent 302 m, descent 232 m

This section was one of the more beautiful sections. After an initial uneventful few kilometres the path veers toward the ocean over many rolling hills. There is no shade. When the trails hits the cliffs, the views are spectacular.

I try to bring a book on each journey to fill my time when waiting at the airport, or on a train. I thought the walking travelogue The Places in Between by Rory Stewart was appropriate. Stewart chronologies one of the crazier long distance walks across Afghanistan in 2002, mere months after the War in Afghanistan (2001–2021). He is lucky to be alive. Now I want to hike in Central Asia.

Against the cold and the sun I just brought my Moroccan headscarf. I wanted to travel very light and managed to keep my pack under 4,4 kilos on the weighing scales at the airport. Add 1,5 kilo of water and my pack was about 6 kilos on the trail. I normally don’t take selfies, but it was the only way to check if I was wearing the scarf properly. The knot on my shoulder should have been on the back of my head. I need to practice more.

The village Carrapateira is quite small. It has a local place serving coffee, toast and croissants, but there is no local restaurant open for diner. Just a tourist restaurant in a neighbourhood of holiday homes. Dinner was mediocre and relatively expensive. My toe was pretty painful and I bought a pair of flip-flops so I wouldn’t need to wear my heavy leather Hanwag ‘double stitched’ hiking shoes in the evening and early mornings.


Carrapateira » Arrifana 19.5 km, ascent 236 m, descent 267 m

I wanted to leave early, but the local coffee place was closed until 9. I couldn’t start my day without breakfast, because there would be no possibility to buy anything for almost 20 kilometres. I spent an hour and half cat spotting until breakfast.

After four hours I unexpectedly walked past a small bar like place. It must have been quite new, since it wasn’t mentioned in the description of this section of the trail. Of course I ordered a red wine.

In Arrifana I booked a cheap bed in a dormitory and found a restaurant serving arroz de lingueirãorazor clam rice – with coriander and chilli but no tomato. I had to give it 10 out of 10. It was just so perfect. Good sour notes.

Arrifana is a hotspot for surfers. On the top of the cliff several vans were parked, many with German license plates. I loved the van from Siegburg (SU), which had the following plate: SU RF 2406. A surf dude from Spain was softly playing electric guitar, filling the air with lingering music. Time slowed down.

Mare incognitum

Sagres » Vila do Bispo 20,2 km, ascent 114 m, descent 179 m

Day two of the Trilho dos Pescadores. After a breakfast of torrada com tomate, coffee with milk and a coffee espresso I headed to the southwesternmost part of Europe.

Before leaving Sagres you walk past a statue of Infante Dom Henrique, o Navegador (4 March 1394 – 13 November 1460), or known in English as Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry was a son of King John I of Portugal. Around that time the Portuguese developed a new type of light ship called the caravel, which enabled them to explore beyond the known territories. Soon the Portuguese navigators mastered the volta do mar, the predictable wind patterns and currents of the Atlantic Ocean. During his lifetime Henry explored Madeira, the Azores and the West African coast. This laid the foundation for later explorations by Portugal, and Vasco da Gama reaching India in 1498.

When the trail leaves Sagres it leads to finis terrae or the end of the known sea called mare incognitum. The landscape changes. Gone are the trees. Presumably because of the battering of the winds of the North Atlantic. The cliffs remain high, up to 75 metres, but the surface of the plain is flat. Only hardy plants survive.

Cabo de São Vicente

This is the southwesternmost part of Europe. The Cape St. Vincent is named after 3rd century Vincent of Saragossa. I think the Rota Vicentina is named after him. He was martyred when he refused to consign Scripture to the fire.

This promontory was considered sacred long before Christianity. The ancient Greeks dedicated here a temple to Heracles and near Vila do Bispo around 300 menhirs have been identified, making it sacred ground in Neolithic times. Today this tip of land sports a powerful light house, its light beam can be seen from 60 kilometers distance, and a snack stand selling the ‘last Bratwurst until America’, which is factual I guess. I ordered an espresso coffee at another stand and walked on.

It seems a German philosopher walked the trail before me. I could almost hear the voice of Werner Herzog in his Bavarian accent: “Would we endure Paradise?” I wondered if I could find the direct quote but Google only offered Gertrude Stein’s: “Wenn du das Paradies ertragen kannst, dann komm nach Mallorca.” But she was American.

For many hours the trail traversed a barren land. Yet, the Sagres Biogenetic Reserve, created by the European Council in 1988, is home to many endemic species.

Portuguese sailing routes (red) during Henry the Navigator's lifetime.

Vila do Bispo

I arrived in Vila do Bispo (population: 5,717) in the afternoon. Because it was too early to check into my booked room, I ordered some cheese, olives and wine in a local tapas place. I didn’t specify the wine and subsequently was served a half liter pitcher. I had it replaced for a glass (‘copo de vinho tinto’). When I returned an hour later for diner, the kitchen was closed.

The only restaurant which was open had lulinhas fritas (fried squids) on the menu, and not much else. That evening my leg muscles were quite close to developing muscle cramp, so I stayed awake until 3 am trying to prevent this earth shattering pain. I managed maybe four hours of sleep before I commenced the third day of my walk the next morning.

The battle of Kyiv

The battle of Kyiv was arguably the most important battle of the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine. If the capital would have fallen, there would have been little hope for recovery. The battle of Kyiv started with an attack on Hostomel Airport with Russian Ka-52 attack helicopters and Mil Mi-8 helikopters carrying paratroopers on 24 February 2022, early in the morning. Shortly before the attack Putin announced a ‘special military operation’ in a a televised speech.

The Russians succeeded taking over the airport but two Ukrainian Su-24 bombers of the 7th Tactical Aviation Brigade managed to damage the runway. Airport staff drove trucks onto the runway, making the airport useless for Russian air support. Instead the Russians used the airport as a forward operating base for ground troops. Satellite images showed no Russian forces inside the airport by 28 March 2022.

Russian helicopters advancing on Hostomel Airport on 24 February 2022.

Despite being overwhelmed by the Russians, Ukraine managed to destroy quite a few advanced Ka-52 attack helicopters.

The next day

On 25 February a small Russian convoy drove through Bucha towards Kyiv, likely accidentally separated from other units, and was ambushed in Irpin and completely destroyed. But on 27 February Russian ground forces advanced into Bucha. After heavy fighting for two weeks, on 12 March 2022, the Bucha City Council announced that Russian forces had fully occupied the city.

Another phase in the battle of Kyiv was the advance of the Russian Kyiv convoy, a large column of Russian military vehicles, to take over the capital. This also didn’t go according to plan. Because of fuel and food shortages and Ukrainian resistance, the convoy was halted. The column was first spotted on satellite images on 28 February 2022. By 31 March the US Department of Defense (DoD) could not confirm the column was still there. It had simply dissolved.

By 31 March the Russians retreated from the Kyiv area, including Bucha. The Battle of Kyiv was over and won by Ukraine.

We are all here, our troops are here, citizens are here, all of us are here protecting our independence of our country. And it will continue to be this way. Glory to our defenders, Glory to Ukraine, Glory to Heroes.
— 25 February 2022, Volodymyr Zelenskyy outside the president's office in Kyiv

The road to Bucha

I travelled to Bucha via Irpin to get a sense of the battle and its geography. From Akademmistechko, the final stop of the Kyiv M1 metro line, I took a minibus to Irpin. From Irpin you can walk to Bucha in half an hour but I took a train instead. What struck me most is how ordinary a place like Irpin is. In peacetime nothing ever happens in Irpin.

Irpin railway station

Irpin railway station and the train to Bucha.

From Hostomel Airport to Irpin river is just 12 kilometers. The Irpin river was the last natural barrier before the outskirts of Kyiv. After the river there is a forested area of about 2 kilometres before you reach the residential part of Kyiv. Below is the route the Russians took until they were halted.

Bucha (Буча), Vokzalna Street

Vokzalna street became infamous because it visualised the attempt by the Russian army to take over Kyiv. After the Russian withdrawal from Bucha, press photos showed the full horror of the war: the street was coloured matt black because of the fighting. Ukrainian forces entered Bucha on 1 April 2022, soon the Bucha massacre became clear. In August 2022 the count of civilian deaths was published: 458, the vast majority of the bodies had signs of shooting, torture, or violent trauma.

Polish news team February 2024

Two years later the street has been cleaned up, some houses have been rebuild, some are still being rebuild. What struck me most is how mundane this street is. After walking up and down the street a couple of times I wanted to do something unremarkable. I went to the hairdresser and had a haircut.

Considering the current war this memorial commemorating the Afghanistan war from 1979 to 1989, in Bucha, is pretty crazy. It shows a Soviet BRDM-2 patrol vehicle. Back then Ukrainians and Russians were bothers in arms in the Soviet Army.

The extension of the main shopping street of Bucha has countless portraits of mostly men who died during the Battle of Bucha.

Bucha railway station


Irpin (Ірпі́нь)

Travelling back from Bucha to Kyiv I walked to Irpin. In Irpin I would take a minibus back to Kyiv.

In Irpin the war damage is still very visible. Bucha has gotten more international attention and therefor more funds for repairs. According to Irpin’s mayor Oleksandr Markushyn 115 buildings had been completely destroyed, 698 significantly damaged and another 187 need partial repairs.

If the Russians would have succeeded crossing Irpin river they would have ended up roughly in this part on the outskirts of Kyiv near Akademmistechko. From there it is another 12 kilometers to Maidan square.

The battle continues

Even though Kyiv is safe from Russian ground troops, it is not safe from attacks by air. Below the weapons Russia is still using against the capital: the air-launched ballistic missile Kh-47M2 Kinzhal, the ship-launched Kalibr missiles, guided Kh-101/Kh-102 missiles, S-400 missile systems, the 9K720 Iskander and Iranian Shahed drones.

Attention, air raid alert. Proceed to the nearest shelter. Don’t be careless, your overconfidence is your weakness.
— Air Alert app, Mark Hamill, Luke Skywalker of Star Wars

The air defence of Kyiv consists of several different systems. The American Avenger Air Defense System, German Flugabwehrkanonenpanzer Gepard, American MIM-23 Hawks, American-Norwegian NASAMS, Franco-Italian SAMP/T, European IRIS-T SLM and TRML-4D radars.

Even after the initial battle Kyiv was not safe. Kyiv after Russian shelling, 2022-10-10. Photo attribute kyiv.dsns.gov.ua.

Lviv - birthplace of Ukrainian nationalism

Vladimir Putin denies the very concept of a national Ukrainian identity. Benedict Anderson conceptualised the modern nation-state as an imagined community in his famous 1983 book Imagined Communities. During the time of the Habsburg Empire Ukrainians were influenced by the nationalism that spread after the French Revolution. The first seeds were sown. The Revolutions of 1848 in the Austrian Empire inspired the founding of the Supreme Ruthenian Council in the city we now call Lviv (Львів). One of the three political requests was that lectures in schools and publishing of government statements needed to be conducted in the Ukrainian language.

From the Supreme Ruthenian Council (1848 - 1851) to the breakup of the Sovjet Union, Ukrainian nationalism survived – between 1917 - 1918; 1918 - 1921 there was even a short-lived Ukrainian People's Republic. In 1991 an independent Ukraine was formed when the Ukrainian Soviet Socialist Republic was dissolved. Not based on ethnicity but as a modern Ukrainian state and pluralistic citizenship laws.

Fight — and you’ll be victorious,
God is helping you!
On your side is justice, on your side is glory,
And holy liberty!
— "The Caucasus", Taras Shevchenko, 1845

Lviv is a very modern bustling city with a population well over 700.000, almost as big as Kraków.

I arrived in Lviv after sunset. My hotel was right on Svobody Avenue. The entrance was inside a luxurious shopping mall. Signs with red arrows pointed at the shelter in the basement in case of an air raid. Since 2022 twelve civilians were killed and thirty-two wounded during dozens of attacks on Lviv Oblast.

I was pretty hungry so I entered the first beer pub I saw, the White Lion pub (Білий Лев, Lesi Ukrainky vul. 15). They served smoked pig’s ears as a beer snack and they lend me a paperclip to remove my physical sim card so I could be sure my data went through eSIM.

Soon I discovered Piana Vyshnia (“Drunk Cherry”), a tiny little place selling sweet but not too sweet cherry liqueur. Most of the action was on the street. I was mesmerised by the singing, and two pints of beer and two cherry liqueurs helped lift my mood. I filmed in vertical video format for Instagram.

I have been to regions of conflict before, Kosova in 1991 among others, Serbias had full and direct control of the province, tanks guarded the border, but never to a country which is under martial law. I have often wondered whether I would be able to fight, would I show valour or would I run to the hills? This question cannot easily be answered. In Lviv I was observing people of fighting age. For them the question is not hypothetical.

Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelenskyy sees the need to mobilise more citizens. The average age of the Ukrainian solider is 43 years at the moment of writing. His commanders have asked for up to 500,000 extra soldiers, but this is hard to finance. For each fighting soldier you need six extra people working to pay for that one soldier. Zelenskyy has to find 3 million extra jobs to even make this possible.

Still, every man, or even woman, in Ukraine knows there could be a moment he or she will be asked to serve, possibly on the front. A bill on mobilisation is now discussed in Ukraine's parliament. At the same time conscripts who have served since before the full-scale invasion began are now being discharged and won’t be called up for 12-months. Zelenskyy promised rotation in his speech when he removed general Valery Zaluzhny as commander-in-chief in February.

When curfew was about to start the crowd started singing this song. I didn’t have time yet to ask somebody what song this is and what the lyrics mean.

Lemberg

When Lviv fell under the Habsburg monarchy the city was known as Lemberg and saw a large influx of Austrians and German-speaking Czech bureaucrats. The city became quite Austrian by the mid 19th century. You can still find the Viennese Coffee House in the city center (12 Svobody Avenue), which was established over a hundred years ago. I ordered the ‘business lunch’ menu which consisted of a beet salad, a very good borscht and a Wiener Schnitzel as flat as a sheet of paper: perfect.

Slavik’s Fashion

One moment the war is invisible, the next moment you are looking at portraits of men who very recently died in battle. President Zelenskyy announced in February 2024 that 31,000 Ukrainian soldiers have been killed in action since 2022.


Memorial of the Heavenly Hundred Heroes

This memorial, built in 2019, is a reminder that upraising of the Ukrainian people against corruption, oligarchs and Russian influence started more than ten years ago, and consequentially the annexing of Crimea by Russia and the war in Donbas. The memorial is to commemorate the people who lost their lives during the Euromaidan protests in 2013 and 2014. Address: Pidvalna St, 6, Lviv.

The protest did not start in Kyiv, but in Lviv when in November 2013 mayor Sadovy called for students to go on a strike and protest. Shortly afterwards tens on thousands young Ukrainians travelled to Kyiv from West-Ukraine to the now famous Maidan Nezalezhnosti square. In January 2014 protesters occupied the regional government building in Lviv. This led to the storming of regional government buildings all over Ukraine. It still angers me when right (and left) wing idiots claim Euromaidan was a CIA sponsored coup. Lviv as cradle for Euromaidan is argued for by Dutch journalist Michiel Driebergen in this article dated 3 February 2014.

Children on a school trip visiting the memorial.

This statue below depicts merchant and translator Yuri-Franz Kulchytsky. He became a hero in the defence of Vienna from the Turks. As a rewards he received 300 sacks of coffee. When Austria ruled Galicia in late 18th century, coffee culture spread to Lviv and today Kulchytsky, a native of a region near Lviv (back then the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, today Ukraine), is seen as the man who brought coffee to Central Europe, which is most likely not true. But it makes a nice story and a cool statue. Today Lviv has many coffee houses in the style of a Wiener Kaffeehaus.


Lviv Railway Station

My final destination would be Kyiv, the capital and seat of government. My train to Kyiv left at 11:05 pm and would arrive the next morning at 06:19 am at Kyiv-Pasazhyrskyi railway station. Many trains run at night. The sleeping carriages are still heated by coal. The night time atmosphere at the railway station is amazing, the smell of coal, the long trains, up to 17 carriages, the big Soviet era locomotives, it’s unforgettable.

I probably bought a first class ticket because my compartment had only two beds. I bought my ticket online before my journey. It was quite a comfortable night.

The situation of the war shortly before my visit. The front is roughly 500 kilometres distance from Kyiv.

Border town Przemyśl

After 24 February 2022 it became inevitable that I had to travel to Ukraine. I had to wait two years for an opportunity. On 17 February 2024 Ukraine was still at war with Russia but I judged my personal risk for this journey to be very low. Besides, my father survived five years of war in Scheveningen and after 1942 in The Hague. I am not afraid of Russian missiles.

To save time I flew from Amsterdam to Kraków on a KLM Cityhopper Embraer and took the EC Porta Moravica, which runs between Graz and Przemyśl. I bought a first class ticket and was surprised my seat number was in the panorama coach of the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB). The three hour train journey was a luxury I hadn’t experienced in some time, even though the landscape of Małopolska is pretty boring.

I bought Timothy Snyder’s 2010 book Bloodlands: Europe Between Hitler and Stalin specifically for this journey. A first class train is excellent for reading. I arrived in Przemyśl just before sunset.

Przemyśl is built on a hill looking over the river San. Its location is of strategic significance, both economically and military. In 1861, when Przemyśl was part of Austrian Galicia, the first railway line was built between Przemyśl and Lviv. In the years leading up to 1914 the city was turned into the third-largest fortress in Europe. Tensions mounted between the Russian Empire and the Austrian Empire and Austria rightly foresaw the strategic importance of Przemyśl. In the war bloody battles were fought between Austrian and Russia. Both sides lost up to 115,000 killed, wounded, and missing [ source ] in this little city.

After the war, in 1918, Przemyśl was disputed between the West Ukrainian People's Republic (1918–1919) and the Second Polish Republic (1918–1939). The Battle of Przemyśl resulted in a Polish victory in the same year. Przemyśl became part of the Second Polish Republic in 1918 until 1939 when the Second Polish Republic seized to exist.

In 2022 Przemyśl proved its function as border town again when the city helped Ukrainian refugees fleeing the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine for which the city received the honorary title of ‘Rescuer City’ presented by the President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy. Today there are roughly 60.000 people living in the city, about the same number as in 1910.

The Good Soldier Švejk (Przygody dobrego wojaka Szwejka in Polish) sitting on an ammunition box on the main square. This unfinished work is an anti-war novel, but also anti-establishment and anti-authoritarian. Considering the history of Przemyśl it seemed fitting to me to see Švejk enjoying his beer and his pipe. But not all wars are alike. I am deeply anti-war myself, but the Ukrainians do not need a Švejk in their ranks. They need to win the war. In peacetime we can muse about the absurdity of war. Not now.

The city center of Przemyśl is very clean and has clearly been newly renovated. The city’s history and surrounding landscape is attractive for tourism.

Restauracja Dominikańska

A colleague from work advised me to visit restaurant Dominikańska (address: ul. Pl. DOMINIKAŃSKI 3) and he was spot on. I started with the best potato-herring salad I ever tasted. It was that good. As soup I love Żurek, made from fermented rye flour. Similar soups can be found in other western Slavic cuisines.

Śledź w sałatce z jajkiem, 15,00 zł.

Żurek na tradycyjnym zakwasie żytnim z prawdziwkami, jajkiem i kiełbasą, 20,00 zł.

Pierogi z kaszą gryczaną i borowików, 22,00 zł.

My Booking.com apartment. Artwork like this just emphasises my solitude. They could have gone for a poster of a whale’s tail sticking out of the ocean.

In the years after the end of the Second World War the development of Przemyśl stalled. The city lost its strategic importance. During the years of the Republic of Poland (1947 - 1952) and the Polish People's Republic (1952 - 1989) economic development was not great either. There was no Marshall Plan for Poland. By 1981 the Polish state was insolvent.

When you walk through the entrance of the typical courtyards, the housing blocks look grim. It is only a matter of time these buildings have to be torn down.

The 1861 Przemyśl - Lviv railway line.

Entering Ukraine

I took a 3:10 PM bus to Lviv. I was the only man on the bus. It is just women and children who shuttle back and forth between Ukraine and Poland. The border checks going into Ukraine are pretty straightforward. I had to hand in my passport and got it back after 10 minutes. No luggage check, no questions. This would be very different leaving Ukraine. That border check took three hours.

Polish side of the border.

During my bus ride the sun was slowly setting. Even though the border is open I felt a little victorious when I entered Ukraine. I finally made it!

Potential Tropical Cyclone 22

I hadn’t paid too much attention to the dates before my flight back home when I discovered I had one extra night in Jamaica. I thought about staying in Portland for one more night but luckily I decided to spent the extra night in Morant Bay, about one hour from the my last hotel near the airport. I didn’t know it yet, but this saved me from getting stuck in Portland or Saint Thomas Parish after the main road washed away due to 48 hours of relentless rain in the days before potential tropical cyclone 22 hit Jamaica. I expected strong winds but it was just raining and raining.

Want to ready my Jamaica journey in chronological order? Start here.

Spending Thursday night trapped between floodwaters in her vehicle in Golden Grove, St Thomas, with her four year old child, was not something Tiffany Sobah anticipated
— The Gleaner, Saturday, November 18, 2023

Morant Bay

It was just too wet to walk around Morant Bay comfortably. The town is engraved into the minds of Jamaicans because of the Morant Bay rebellion in 1865 led by Baptist deacon and activist Paul Bogle. The formerly enslaved population was suffering from an economic crisis and received few civil or religious freedoms. The rebellion is well documented. It resulted in the hanging of Paul Bogle. He is now considered a National Hero. Jamaican dancer Gerald Levy adopted the artist name Bogle to honour Paul Bogle. The name now lives on as Bogle dance, a dance choreographed by Levy in 1991.

The attack on the cout house, St Thomas in the East, Jamaica by William Heysham Overend.

Bogle · Buju Banton, original 1991.

I arrived way too early at my last hotel on Friday. The owner couldn’t remotely open the gate and door for me because of a power cut. There was no electricity and she was living in Kingston. I had to wait until 4 pm for the cleaning lady to arrive. So I waited for almost four hours next to the road in the pouring rain. There wasn't even a bar. Luckily a liquor store was open so I could order some Red Stripe beer, watch the trucks go by and say hello to the people walking past me. Only on Saturday, my final day in Jamaica, the sky cleared.

A short postscript. Looking back to my two-week journey it struck me that Jamaica is a very unique place on this earth. Its people are very creative, something I learned from the Jamaican music I listened to in the past thirty years. But the creativity also spills over in the living language, patois, and the resilience people show when earning a living. Which left-hand drive mountainous country in the world would import those big right-hand drive USA rigs made for the wide and open American highways? Only in Jamaica. No boy cyan make we run left Jamaica.

Nanny of the Maroons

The year 1655 was a crucial year for Jamaican Maroons. When the British defeated the Spanish, many enslaved Africans escaped into the mountainous interior of the island, sometimes mixing with native Taíno. These Maroons formed rather independent communities from the British and were slowly gaining power to the chagrin of the British. By 1720, a spiritual leader named Nanny, emerged in the Blue Mountains, uniting several villages, which later became known as Nanny Town. ‘Queen’ Nanny fought a successful guerrilla war against the British. Meanwhile the British were also engaged in fighting the Maroon warrior Cudjoe in Westmoreland Parish, which led to a peace treaty when the British realised they could not defeat the Maroons.

Nanny refused to sign the Peace Treaty of 1740, but was able to relocate to 500 acres of land, at a site which late became known as Moore Town. Her body is said to be buried in Moore Town. I visited Nanny’s memorial in Moore Town.

Nanny of the Maroons.

Moore Town is really small. Apart from a cultural centre, which was closed on the November day I arrived, there is really nothing expect scattered residential housing. There was a small shop, which sold cheap but cold Red Stripe beer for only 250 dollars per bottle. I drank beer and watched the roosters parade around in the rain. Some men were repairing a car, hammering loudly.

When I wanted to go back to Port Antonio there was no taxi in sight. I decided to start walking back. The mountain road was beautiful and I didn’t mind the occasional light rain shower. The whole distance was quite far. I got to a junction and started chatting to somebody. I ended up in a small bar and bought several people a beer.

The discussion below was the result of somebody asking me how much I paid for my plane ticket. The man in the pink shirt offered me a ride back to Kingston. Along the way we stopped at a house, were he bought two pigs for Christmas.


Barbecue and jerk

When the Spanish settled in Cuba, Dominican Republic and Jamaica they adopted the Taíno word barbakoa for the raised wooden structure the Taíno used to slow cure meat on hot ash. The word entered the English language as barbecue.

The practise of slow roasting heavily seasoned (jerk) meat is said to have been preserved by Maroon communities who learned the practice from the Taíno, although it is believed that the Maroons used underground fire pits to prevent the smoke to become visible. The jerk seasoning preserves the meat and gives it extra flavour. The practice of roasting seasoned meat is called jerking. The jerk seasoning consists at least of pimento and Scotch bonnet peppers.

Traditional Jamaican jerk is made on a fire pit below sticks of pimento en sweet wood. The meat is placed on the wood and then covered with metal sheets to capture the flavourful wood smoke. It is quite a difficult proces because you need to maintain a low but stable temperature for many hours.

Boston by day.

On my first night in Portland I walked to one of the Boston jerk places. Boston is famous for its jerk, but it is really a cluster of several jerk places. I opted for pork instead of chicken. It was served with ‘festivals’ (=fried bread) and of course I ordered a Red Stripe. The ladies in the background were rather loud. The loudest lady proclaimed to nobody in particular that she was a Christian and that her Lord commanded her to have sex every day and twice on a Sunday. I couldn’t hold my tongue and I told her that I became tired by just listening to her.

She didn’t believe I had so little stamina and when I confessed I was living not far from the red light district in Amsterdam, she really didn’t believe me. I joked that I didn’t want no ‘double trouble’ and everybody got the Beres Hammond reference. The ladies were screaming with laughter. In the end she forced me to buy her a drink. I made it back to my hotel alone, as planned.

Pork jerk and festivals.

Boston jerk kitchen.

Of course I had to remember the name of one of the men the night before - Shane - and he took this as an opportunity to drag me to a small bar a few hundred meters from the road and fleece a couple of beers out of me. Shane was a ‘habitual line stepper’ to quote Charlie Murphy, and the man in the foreground pulled a chair for me so I could drink my beer in peace.

Jerk Chicken in Port Antonio

After the Boston jerk pork I had to try the jerk chicken. This place is just outside the town center of Port Antonio. The chicken is grilled in large batches in old oil drums.

The rain intensifies Potential Tropical Cyclone 22