Zeus
I saved the best for last, or so I thought. Earlier, I was too tired to climb the highest peak of the island, but I wanted to see where Zeus acquired his bolts of lightning. On a more human level, Zeus was worshipped by the Naxians as "the protector of sheep and goats," which is important too.
The path to the peak of Mount Zas begins near a small spring. The first thirty minutes were manageable, but the ascent soon left me breathless. It took another forty-five minutes to reach the peak, followed by seventy-five minutes on the way down. Although it’s considered an easy mountain, the path ends after fifteen minutes, requiring you to scramble over large rocks to reach the summit. Unfortunately, I simply didn’t have the energy—thanks to that damn virus. I found myself explaining my situation to a random American girl for no particular reason, wishing her luck as she continued onward. I felt a bit defeated, but once I decided not to continue, I simply shrugged and stumbled back down.
In the mountain village Filoti, I ordered a glass of red wine to help me forget my failed mission and devise a plan for the afternoon.
All I could think about was returning to the beach for my final afternoon and evening. Once again, I was surrounded by the brave little saddled seabream, and I stayed in the warm water to watch the sun inch closer to the horizon. These were the last moments of light. I realized that in two days, I would touch down in a dark autumnal Amsterdam—no more lightness.
I had to return to the Paradise Tavern for my final ritual: fine dining without smell or taste. The grilled octopus was excellent, and the texture was truly enjoyable. I have hesitated to eat octopus ever since I learned about their incredible intelligence. Then I thought: would Odysseus eat octopus? He probably would.
Kitron
As a digestif, the staff at Paradise tavern offered me a glass of Kitron on the house. Perhaps they took pity on me, as I was the only person dining alone all three nights I visited. This citron liquor is made from citron leaves, with the main production occurring in Chalki. However, a shortage of citron trees limits its availability. Kitron comes in three varieties: green, colorless, and yellow, with the latter being the most bitter and the green version the sweetest.
Final morning
On a small island connected by a pier to the Chóra, and the port, stands the Portára, a monumental temple gate erected around 530 BC. It was part of a temple dedicated to Apollo, but the temple was never completed. Apollo and Dionysus represent two opposing principles: the static, clear, and pure Apollo, and the dynamic, unleashed, ecstatic Dionysus.
Epilogue
This was a strange journey, traveling with two important senses—smell and taste—diminished from the usual. With less energy to be active, I had more time to think and read. My flight back home was on Monday, so I spent Sunday evening in the port city of Piraeus. When there are cats, I’m happy. But the marina filled with expensive yachts is quite unappealing. The heart of Piraeus lies in the narrow streets between the apartment buildings on the many hills, where people grill over open coals in the street and neighbors gather outside, with balconies overflowing with green plants. Unlike Oran, Piraeus is anything but a neutral place.
“A convenient way of getting to know a town is to find out how people work there, how they love and how they die. [...] Naturally, they also enjoy simple pleasures: they love women, the cinema and sea bathing. But they very sensibly keep these activities for Saturday evening and Sunday, while trying on other days of the week to earn a lot of money.”
Piraeus beach.
