Doha
Few destinations I have anticipated like the city of Doha. The last time I left Doha it was a town of 80.000 people, in 2024 the population is 1,2 million people, barely bigger than Amsterdam. Doha is not a huge metropole, it is a human scale city. I had booked a hotel walking distance from the old Souq Waqif, which was built in the late 19th to early 20th century.
Souq Waqif سوق واقف
In 1969 we didn't live far from the souq and when I sat down for breakfast I listened to the music from the vintage radio on display, looked at the morning sunlight, smelled the cardamon from my coffee and felt completely at peace. My sensory experience was likely the same my parents experienced 55 years ago, although I never heard them rave about Arabic coffee. My father claims he didn’t drink it.
Visiting Doha, or any Arab Gulf nation, in the end of May is considered off-season. The temperatures are reaching 43 degrees Celsius midday and most tourists consider that too hot. I wasn’t bothered by it. Besides, in Doha you can feel a cool sea breeze, which makes the temperature feel like just below 40 degrees.
Souq Waqif on a postcard, late 1960s.
Qatari coffee
Breakfast in Souq Waqif. Unsweetened Arabic coffee and a simple chapati, which can be filled with egg, cheese, or both. The Souq is a good place to buy spices, kitchenware or clothing. I did buy a Qatari handmade agal with tassels. I am not sure when to wear it outside the Arab world.
Katara Cultural Village
Katara is like a village within Doha. It was opened in 2010. The only reason I visited Katara was because it was highlighted on the inboard flight entertainment on Qatar Airways. It is not a place for me. It is supposed to reflect the country's cultural and architectural heritage, but all I could see were distasteful buildings. But apparently it is a place where many cultural festivities are held, so I should not judge too soon.
The beaches of Katara all seem to be private. I was was chased away by friendly security guards three times before I gave up. You can’t touch the sand.
One non-alcoholic drink I learned to love was a mint-lime drink.
Doha Metro الدوحة
The Doha Metro was opened in 2019 but five years on, still looks like brand new. There are three different compartments one each train: family, general and gold. The family section is used by women, the gold compartment is accessible for anybody who wants to spent the extra money on a journey and a gold membership card. All Japanese built trains are driverless.
Museum of Islamic Art
The MIA (Museum of Islamic Art) is definitely worth a vist. The building was designed by Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei and opened in 2008. It was newly renovated in 2022 and therefore looks like brand new. The collection is very broad and spans all three continents (Asia, Africa and Europe) and 1400 years of islamic influence.
“What was done was worthwhile ”
Folio belonging to 9th Century Blue Quran written in Kufic script. This Quran was probably produced in Tunisia or Spain, although its exact origin is unknown. During the Ottoman Empire the 600 folios were scattered and many pages ended up in museums all over the world. The indigo-coloured parchment is more beautiful in real life. Photos don’t do justice to the original.
Al Wakrah الوكرة
Al Wakrah is a city of 90.000 inhabitants just south of Doha. It is reached by taking the red metro line to the final station called Al Wakrah. Then you can either take a local bus or a taxi to Souq Waqif Al Wakra. This might look like a restored old souq, it is actually completely newly designed with heritage features. It is a fantasy, but I have to admit, it is done with great taste.
Iced karkadé
Camel patrol on Al Wakrah beachfront while I was sipping on my iced hibiscus drink, called كَركَديه karkadé in Arabic. I went to Al Wakrah every day just before sunset because it is such a relaxed quiet place to be.
A dallah with Qatari coffee and dates. I like this way of serving coffee. A tea light keeps the coffee hot and you sip tiny cups. This is much more relaxed than having to finish a cup of coffee before it gets cold.
Al Wakrah fishing harbour
Al Wakrah has a small fishing harbour which is not accessible for non authorised persons. I bullied myself past the security guard pretending I was meeting somebody and I was in. I was a little amazed to see the wooden dhows are still used for fishing. Of course the dhows are motorised now and the crew is Bangladeshi or Indian. Judging by the catch a dhow is typically specialised in one type of fish.
In the souq of Al Wakrah there are ubiquitous grilled fish restaurants. When ordering you can choose how you want the fish spiced, Arabic with no chilli, or Indian with plenty of chili. The grilled fish is served with mandi rice and generally of good quality. I had the sea bass. ‘Mandi’ has its origins in Yemen. It is basically made by cooking the basmati rice in a spiced meat stock.
Back in Doha, the city really comes alive at night time. You can take a boat trip on a dhow towards the West Bay and its colourful high-rise buildings.
