Le bon goût de la famille Acker

Artitec, the company I am working for, was invited by Gabriel Acker, the publisher of the magazine Le Train, to Wissembourg in France, just 2 kilometres from the German-French border, for the Le Rail d’Or 2022 award ceremony.

The award ceremony was held in the winery Cleebourg. Before the ceremony we drank crémant. Our company won two first prices in two categories. In the evening there was diner in restaurant Moulin de la Walk.

I left home early enough to have time for hiking on Friday in the Südpfalz around Annweiler am Trifels. The Reichsburg Trifels towers high above the town. From the early 14th century the castle was in decline. The current form is the result of a restaurantion project which began in 1841 when Annweiler was part of Königreich Bayern (1806–1918).

France was suffering under a dangerous heatwave that weekend. The worst temperatures were in the south of France but even in Wissembourg the thermometer hit 35 degrees Celsius (95 °F).

The city of Wissembourg originated around the Weissenburg Abbey, which became an important abbey by acquiring fertile agricultural land and investing the proceeds in saltworks. But when the direct management of the fields by the monastery transitioned into a (then modern) feudal system, the estates gradually vanished and the abbey lost power. The current St. Peter and St. Paul's Church was largely built in the late 13th century.

On Friday we ate Flammenkuchen under the tower of the church in restaurant L' Abbaye and I tasted the best frog legs ever. I plan to cook the recipe at home. Especially the garlic has to be perfectly cooked. I am quite sure they fried the garlic separately just like you would do when making Thai garlic fish.

Cuisses de grenouille au beurre aillé et persillé

Salez et poivrez les cuisses de grenouille puis roulez-les dans la farine. Faites-les revenir dans l'huile chaude pendant 5 minutes. Faites fondre le beurre, retirez du feu et ajoutez l'ail et le persil haché. Laissez infuser à couvert quelques minutes. Versez les cuisses de grenouille dans le beurre persillé, couvrez et laissez reposer 2 minutes. Servez sur des assiettes préchauffées.

The Swiss owner of Fulgurex, Dani Ingold, brought one of his classic MG cars. This looks very much like a 1933 MG J-type. Stunning car and stories to match. One time during the Historic Grand Prix of Monaco Dani collided with a Bugatti in the tunnel. Instead of waiting for the towing truck, both drivers calmly walked into the Monte Carlo Casino and ordered a beer.

After the award ceremony we headed to the wine cellar for a wine tasting. I bought a few bottles and probably ‘‘cooked’’ my wine the next day when I left the wine in my car while hiking.

Filling the glasses with Crémant d’ Alsace in the winery Cleeburg.

Hôtel Restaurant Moulin de la Walk

I have to hand it to the French. In France gastronomy is more than just diner. In 2010 Le repas gastronomique des Français was inscribed in UNESCO's cultural heritage. Eric and Isabelle Schmidt are third generation patrons of Moulin de la Walk. The first course consisted of a perfect pairing of a 2017 Gewürtztraminer with foie gras (oie et canard). I had my glass filled twice. The sour notes were provided by a compotée rhubarbe. Just perfect!

The second course was equally perfect. The wine was provided by Domaine Louis Cheze, if I’m correct the Sixtus 2020 Côtes du Rhône blanc is made of viognier grapes.

I couldn’t finish the glass of red wine which accompanied the pork. Since the late afternoon I drank eight glasses of wine, which was way more than I am used to.

Duo de foie gras maison (oie et canard aux fruits sec). Gel fraise, compotée rhubarbe.
Vin: Gewürtztraminer Verdangen tardives 2017.

Filet de dorade rôti. Pointes d’asperges, sauce beurre blanc.
Vin: Sixtus 2020 Côtes du Rhône blanc.

Véritable pluma de porc ibérique. Poêlée de légumes d’été. Pommes de terre rissolées.
Vin: Saint Joseph Cuvée Ro-Rée. Domaine Louis CHEZE.

Below: Délice fraises-citron, biscuit pistache.

Eric and Isabelle Schmidt

Deutsches Weintor

In the time of Nationalsozialismus the Pfalz as a wine growing area was in trouble. An abundant harvest in 1934 in combination with a Berufsverbot for Jewish wine merchants, caused a price crash. To draw visitors to the Pfalz the rulers created the Deutsche Weinstraße under the openings title “Kampf und Volk – Wein und Wahrheit“. In 1936 the stone gate was built in just two months. The swastika under the eagle is still visible. The gate can be seen from France. The border is just 750 meters from the gate.

After leaving my hotel at 10 am I planned to hike part of the Deutsche Weinstraße starting at the gate. The hike was pleasant while in the forest. To get back to my car in time I took a short cut on the way back through the vineyards. With 35 degrees Celsius and no shade I barely escaped a heat stroke. I had to sit down with a large bottle of cold mineral water for 45 minutes before I was well enough to drive.

No shade and 35 degrees. In the distance the Deutsche Weintor.

Alpes-Maritimes

It took me two days to reach the French department Alpes-Maritimes via Nancy and Lyon (Autoroute du soleil: A7). Driving onward on the La Provençale A8, the area between Cannes and Nice was much more urban than I anticipated. Campings were wedged in between urban areas, only accessible through narrow mountain roads and more importantly: full. After almost two hours of searching (at one point I had been driving for more than 13 hours), and a waning sun, I found a camping and a spot for late arrivals. The earth was so hard I couldn't hammer my rock pegs in the ground so I slept under the stars next to my car.

When I left The Netherlands my head was still full with work and the weekly care for my father. I hadn’t made space for myself to plan ahead.

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The next morning I walked to the Mediterranean Sea and made the decision to head for a camping I had been to many years ago in the Parc national du Mercantour. Lately I’ve been making a point never to visit the same place twice, but I was tired of driving and I knew the camping in Saint-Martin-Vésubie was situated in a beautiful fruit orchard.

I probably had a romantic idea of the Côte d'Azur. The very least I expected to find more space. Currently there are almost a million people living in the Nice metropolitan area. It’s a busy place with bustling traffic, which gives you no time to pause.

Le Gendarme de Saint-Tropez (1964)

Le Gendarme de Saint-Tropez (1964)

Saint-Martin-Vésubie

The camping was everything I remembered it to be. The last time it was springtime, with some patches of snow just above the tree line at 2300 meters. This time the sunlight was harsh. The camping is situated just outside the 12th century village. It’s no more than a 10 minute walk to the village square.

Camping A La Ferme St. Joseph, Rte de Nice, 06450 Saint-Martin-Vésubie

Camping A La Ferme St. Joseph, Rte de Nice, 06450 Saint-Martin-Vésubie

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Tripes à la Niçoise
Saint-Martin-Vésubie has some really nice butchers and artisanal food shops. I’m probably the only Dutchman who likes tripe. I found the following recipe which corresponds with the ingredients on the jar I bought: Heat olive oil in a pot over medium heat and add cow’s tripe (first blanche the tripe in water with vinegar for 20 seconds). Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in white wine, tomatoes, carrot, garlic, onions, thyme, bayleaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 8 hours.

View of the camping from the road.

View of the camping from the road.

Souffle de la nature

On October 2 in 2020 storm Alex hit the region above Nice. Within 24 hours 571 millimeters rain fell causing a gigantic flood, which swept away a large part of the river Vésubie and its surroundings. Almost a year later most of the rouble wasn’t cleared up and many houses were still inhabitable. The ancient part of the village was spared because it was built on an elevation.

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There is one view point from the camping, which hides the destruction of the storm.

There is one view point from the camping, which hides the destruction of the storm.

Mountain hike Cime de la Palu (2.132) - Cime de Clapeirette (2.333).

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Mountain hike Forêt Communale de Saint-Martin-Vésubie - le Boreon

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Perfect ripe and much tastier than you get in Amsterdam: pêche plat et prune jaune.

Perfect ripe and much tastier than you get in Amsterdam: pêche plat et prune jaune.

Road trip Liguria

Autoroute du Soleil - Antibes - Saint-Martin-Vésubie (Alpes-Maritimes) - Monaco - Imperia (Liguaria) - Piemonte - Switzerland - Deutsche Weinstraße

A few days before I was bound to leave for Austria the weather prediction was not good: a fair chance of rain and the temperatures dropped from 30 degrees Celsius to just 20 in Salzburg. I quickly changed gears and took the Autoroute du Soleil to the Côte d'Azur or whatever.

First stop: Alpes-Maritimes

La fête du Train au Pays des Grands Noms

My work usually takes me to Germany but December 2019 was an exception. Every three years Denis Thomas, Président Office de Tourisme de Meursault, organises a model train fair named ‘La fête du Train’. The company I work for was present with a stand. Meursault is a small wine village in Côte de Beaune the southern part of the Côte-d'Or department and region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté in France. When I arrived in the afternoon there was a pretty dense fog. The surroundings were completely hidden behind a grey wall. It was clear the beginning of December was off-season. Many restaurants were closed and not much work was done on the vines. The hotel I booked was a small private house right in the center. It was really a perfect place to spent a leisurely afternoon on my own.

Meursault wine

Around 98 percent of wines produced in Meursault are white wines. Most wines are 100% Chardonnay although AOC regulations allow both Chardonnay and Pinot blanc. Several climats or lieu-dits are classified as Premier Cru vineyards. Meursault is pretty much synonymous with Chardonnay and the quality of a Meursault Chardonnay is excellent. The price of a bottle starts with approximately 16 euro and can easily go up to 70 euro or higher for a Premier Cru. I think those prices are too high. For 20 euro you can buy a very good ‘buttery’ Chardonnay from Meursault thanks to extended oak ageing.

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Hotel Restaurant Le Chevreuil

Address: 1 Place de la République, 21190 Meursault

The second day I took our new agent for France, Guy Coessens, out for dinner. After a few too many aperitif (Chardonnay & pastis) in the local pub, we settled for Restaurant Le Chevreuil for diner.

Demi-lune de foie gras poêlé, duxelles de cèpes, bouillon de queue de bœuf aux arômes de champignons

Demi-lune de foie gras poêlé, duxelles de cèpes, bouillon de queue de bœuf aux arômes de champignons

Pigeon de Corton en deux cuissons, châtaignes rôties et mousseline de potimarron.

Pigeon de Corton en deux cuissons, châtaignes rôties et mousseline de potimarron.

Château de Meursault

On Saturday evening were invited for diner at the Château. This was an amazing experience. The annual La Paulée de Meursault after the harvest is legendary. La Paulée was launched by the Meursault wine producer Jules Lafon in 1923. The reputation of this wine fest reached far and since 2000 La Paulée de New York and La Paulée de San Francisco are being hosted by American sommelier and wine entrepreneur Daniel Johnnes. The diner I attended borrowed quite a few things from the post-harvest fest. Music and singalongs were provided by the Joyeux Bourguignons, Each course only started after the communal Ban Bourguignon and at the end of the evening everybody raised up and waved their napkins to the "Marseillaise bourguignonne".

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Tatin de St-Jacques aux petits légumes au coulis d’olive.

Tatin de St-Jacques aux petits légumes au coulis d’olive.

Notre mission : chanter le vin et animer vos festins !
— les Joyeux Bourguignons
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Carte des vins

  • Meursault “les Tillets” 2017, Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot.

  • Baune 2017, Domaine du Château de Meursault.

  • Pommard 2016 “Les Noizons”, Domaine Gilles Lafouge.

Filet de Boeuf Rossini sauce Périgueux, foie gras et pommes Anna.

Filet de Boeuf Rossini sauce Périgueux, foie gras et pommes Anna.

At the end of the evening everybody raised up and waved their napkins to the "Marseillaise bourguignonne".

At the end of the evening everybody raised up and waved their napkins to the "Marseillaise bourguignonne".

Aéroport Nice Côte d'Azur - Saint-Martin-Vésubie

A travel story from early springtime in 2010. This was a time you had to mask the bad quality of the iPhone camera by applying heavy filters to the image. It renders the images both a little tacky and evocative.

In 2010 I had been running for a couple of years. On this trip I decided to ditch the heavy mountain shoes for some light trail running shoes. I had planned to go hiking, instead I found myself running most of the time. I guess in the springtime of 2010 I discovered trail running. In the summer of 2010 I ran my first 50k trail run in The Netherlands.

In that year I must have also read Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes, and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen by Christopher McDougall for the first time. This book catapulted running from the sports category to something which was actually cool.

Flight: Amsterdam Schiphol - Aéroport Nice Côte d'Azur.
Bus: Nice - Saint-Martin-Vésubie.

Boarding on the tarmac at Schiphol Airport. Flight time is about 2 hours. In 2021 it took me 2 days to reach Nice by car. By train the journey can be done in 11 hours.

Boarding on the tarmac at Schiphol Airport. Flight time is about 2 hours. In 2021 it took me 2 days to reach Nice by car. By train the journey can be done in 11 hours.

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Camping A La Ferme Au Verge Saint Joseph. The camping is basically a fruit orchard.

Camping A La Ferme Au Verge Saint Joseph. The camping is basically a fruit orchard.

So early in the season I had the fruit orchard almost to myself.

So early in the season I had the fruit orchard almost to myself.

View from my tent: moon at night.

View from my tent: moon at night.

View of Saint-Martin-Vésubie before storm Alex in 2020.

View of Saint-Martin-Vésubie before storm Alex in 2020.

Ditching the boots to start running.

Ditching the boots to start running.

Lunch break in the mountains consist of mainly canned food, cheese and dried sausages.

Lunch break in the mountains consist of mainly canned food, cheese and dried sausages.

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When the snow melts, crocus flowers appear.

When the snow melts, crocus flowers appear.

Wild trout from Lac du Boréon.

Wild trout from Lac du Boréon.

What did I bring to read? The Mind of Wall Street: A Legendary Financier on the Perils of Greed and the Mysteries of the Market by Leon Levy apparently.

What did I bring to read? The Mind of Wall Street: A Legendary Financier on the Perils of Greed and the Mysteries of the Market by Leon Levy apparently.

Busstation Saint-Martin-Vésubie. In 2010 I didn’t own a car. My wheeled travel bag had to fit my tent and was so big KLM considered it oversized cargo. I had to check in my bag at a special counter. Quite a hassle.

Busstation Saint-Martin-Vésubie. In 2010 I didn’t own a car. My wheeled travel bag had to fit my tent and was so big KLM considered it oversized cargo. I had to check in my bag at a special counter. Quite a hassle.

I’m pretty sure I didn’t sleep in Nice. I had an evening flight so I just spent the day in the city. The whole trip lasted four days.

I’m pretty sure I didn’t sleep in Nice. I had an evening flight so I just spent the day in the city. The whole trip lasted four days.

View from Colline du Château in Nice.

View from Colline du Château in Nice.