Neuer Wein

New wine in Germany. Once yeast has been added, the sugar contained in the grapes is broken down into alcohol and carbon dioxide (the proces is called glycolysis). If the alcohol percentage has reached around 4% the wine may be sold as Federweißer or Federroter, if the wine is made from red grapes. The fermenting proces doesn’t stop, that’s why you cannot bottle a Federweißer. The carbon dioxide might explode the bottle.

To enjoy Federweißer you have to visit the German wine growing regions in September and October. Many winery owners sell Federweißer directly from the winery. It is custom to eat Zwiebelkuchen alongside a Federweißer. Sometimes you will find a bottle of Federweißer but not corked. You have to transport the bottle home vertically and consume the wine in a couple of days.

I visited the Ahrtal the last weekend of September. From the last weekend of September until the last weekend of October there are festivities in the wine villages (think: live music, small stalls where you can drink wine, freshly backed waffels on the street, nothing major but cosy enough for an enjoyable weekend or day. I parked my car in Mayschoß for a short hike to Altenahr following the Ahrsteig and then back to Mayschoß on the other side of the Ahr following the Rotweinwanderweg. Despite the Federweißer, the wine region is known for its red wines. The leaves on the trees were still mostly green, towards the end of October this region will look spectacular when the autumn colours take over.

Wine village Mayschoß in the background.

Below is the view towards Altenahr and the tunnels. Before the boring of the tunnels in 1834 the path from Altenahr towards the Rhine could be reached by hiking up to the Weiße Kreuz. Even the dead had to be carried along this path therefore a white cross was erected to mark a resting place for the party carrying the dead body, or so the story goes. After the late 19th century the white cross became a land mark for tourists. Across the river you will find the Schwarze Kreuz (black cross) on an equally beautiful view point.

Federweißer and Zwiebelkuchen at the 11th century Burgruine Saffenburg. During the War of the Spanish Succession (1701–1714) the hill castle was destroyed and never rebuilt. Archbishop Joseph Clemens von Bayern of Kurköln made the mistake of choosing the side of Louis XIV of France at the beginning of the War of the Spanish Succession. Soon he had to fight off forces of the Grand Alliance. The French Chevalier de Lacroix occupied the hill castle in October 1702 and in May 1703 the French surrendered after General Sommerfeld pounded the castle with 12-pounder guns und two mortars. 70 bombs landed on the castle.

Drawing of the Burgruine Saffenburg by Renier Roidkin, first half of the 18th century.

You don’t have to travel to Bavaria to enjoy Spanferkelbraten an einer Malzbiersauce. Usually the other German regions are well represented in the rest of Germany. It is not unusual to find Bavarian dishes in Rheinland-Pfalz. Spanferkelbraten is a roast suckling pig. This one was served with Apfelrotkohl and Kartoffelknödels. I like these German dishes because they resemble traditional Dutch food: meat with gravy, well boiled vegetables and potatoes.