Mare incognitum

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Sagres » Vila do Bispo 20,2 km, ascent 114 m, descent 179 m

Day two of the Trilho dos Pescadores. After a breakfast of torrada com tomate, coffee with milk and a coffee espresso I headed to the southwesternmost part of Europe.

Before leaving Sagres you walk past a statue of Infante Dom Henrique, o Navegador (4 March 1394 – 13 November 1460), or known in English as Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry was a son of King John I of Portugal. Around that time the Portuguese developed a new type of light ship called the caravel, which enabled them to explore beyond the known territories. Soon the Portuguese navigators mastered the volta do mar, the predictable wind patterns and currents of the Atlantic Ocean. During his lifetime Henry explored Madeira, the Azores and the West African coast. This laid the foundation for later explorations by Portugal, and Vasco da Gama reaching India in 1498.

When the trail leaves Sagres it leads to finis terrae or the end of the known sea called mare incognitum. The landscape changes. Gone are the trees. Presumably because of the battering of the winds of the North Atlantic. The cliffs remain high, up to 75 metres, but the surface of the plain is flat. Only hardy plants survive.

Cabo de São Vicente

This is the southwesternmost part of Europe. The Cape St. Vincent is named after 3rd century Vincent of Saragossa. I think the Rota Vicentina is named after him. He was martyred when he refused to consign Scripture to the fire.

This promontory was considered sacred long before Christianity. The ancient Greeks dedicated here a temple to Heracles and near Vila do Bispo around 300 menhirs have been identified, making it sacred ground in Neolithic times. Today this tip of land sports a powerful light house, its light beam can be seen from 60 kilometers distance, and a snack stand selling the ‘last Bratwurst until America’, which is factual I guess. I ordered an espresso coffee at another stand and walked on.

It seems a German philosopher walked the trail before me. I could almost hear the voice of Werner Herzog in his Bavarian accent: “Would we endure Paradise?” I wondered if I could find the direct quote but Google only offered Gertrude Stein’s: “Wenn du das Paradies ertragen kannst, dann komm nach Mallorca.” But she was American.

For many hours the trail traversed a barren land. Yet, the Sagres Biogenetic Reserve, created by the European Council in 1988, is home to many endemic species.

Portuguese sailing routes (red) during Henry the Navigator's lifetime.

Vila do Bispo

I arrived in Vila do Bispo (population: 5,717) in the afternoon. Because it was too early to check into my booked room, I ordered some cheese, olives and wine in a local tapas place. I didn’t specify the wine and subsequently was served a half liter pitcher. I had it replaced for a glass (‘copo de vinho tinto’). When I returned an hour later for diner, the kitchen was closed.

The only restaurant which was open had lulinhas fritas (fried squids) on the menu, and not much else. That evening my leg muscles were quite close to developing muscle cramp, so I stayed awake until 3 am trying to prevent this earth shattering pain. I managed maybe four hours of sleep before I commenced the third day of my walk the next morning.

Trilho dos Pescadores - Walking North

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Vila do Bispo » Carrapateira 15.3 km, ascent 302 m, descent 232 m

This section was one of the more beautiful sections. After an initial uneventful few kilometres the path veers toward the ocean over many rolling hills. There is no shade. When the trails hits the cliffs, the views are spectacular.

I try to bring a book on each journey to fill my time when waiting at the airport, or on a train. I thought the walking travelogue The Places in Between by Rory Stewart was appropriate. Stewart chronologies one of the crazier long distance walks across Afghanistan in 2002, mere months after the War in Afghanistan (2001–2021). He is lucky to be alive. Now I want to hike in Central Asia.

Against the cold and the sun I just brought my Moroccan headscarf. I wanted to travel very light and managed to keep my pack under 4,4 kilos on the weighing scales at the airport. Add 1,5 kilo of water and my pack was about 6 kilos on the trail. I normally don’t take selfies, but it was the only way to check if I was wearing the scarf properly. The knot on my shoulder should have been on the back of my head. I need to practice more.

The village Carrapateira is quite small. It has a local place serving coffee, toast and croissants, but there is no local restaurant open for diner. Just a tourist restaurant in a neighbourhood of holiday homes. Dinner was mediocre and relatively expensive. My toe was pretty painful and I bought a pair of flip-flops so I wouldn’t need to wear my heavy leather Hanwag ‘double stitched’ hiking shoes in the evening and early mornings.

Carrapateira » Arrifana 19.5 km, ascent 236 m, descent 267 m

I wanted to leave early, but the local coffee place was closed until 9. I couldn’t start my day without breakfast, because there would be no possibility to buy anything for almost 20 kilometres. I spent an hour and half cat spotting until breakfast.

After four hours I unexpectedly walked past a small bar like place. It must have been quite new, since it wasn’t mentioned in the description of this section of the trail. Of course I ordered a red wine.

In Arrifana I booked a cheap bed in a dormitory and found a restaurant serving arroz de lingueirão – razor clam rice – with coriander and chilli but no tomato. I had to give it 10 out of 10. It was just so perfect. Good sour notes.

Arrifana is a hotspot for surfers. On the top of the cliff several vans were parked, many with German license plates. I loved the van from Siegburg (SU), which had the following plate: SU RF 2406. A surf dude from Spain was softly playing electric guitar, filling the air with lingering music. Time slowed down.

Trilho dos Pescadores - Reaching Aljezur

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Arrifana » Aljezur 17,1 km, ascent 223 m, descent 178 m

Because I had to catch a flight back Saturday afternoon, this was to be the last section of the Fishermen’s Trail. Considering the fact that in Aljezur there is a bus connection back to Lagos, this wasn’t too bad. Not every village has a bus connection.

This section of the trail had quite a lot of kilometres consisting of very soft sand. The landscape was basically a dune landscape. All these days I had been walking within the boundaries of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. I had seen stork in their natural habitat flying off the cliffs toward the ocean. Quite a different bird from the storks I am used to in The Netherlands.

Somebody told me that during high season you cannot drive a camper this close to the ocean. Not sure if this is true.

The last day was overall very sunny but in the last hour of my five day hike it started to rain for the first time. Just before Aljezur I passed by this unremarkable stone structure. According to the sign it was water spring of islamic origin and dated back to the 10th century.

Aljezur

Population: 5,884.

Since it was the last day of my walk I treated myself to a fish restaurant. I had hoped to taste goose barnacles, no matter the price, but the patron of Cervejaria Mar (address: R. da Escola 13, 8670-055, Aljezur) told me the ocean wasn’t favourable for harvesting goose barnacles at the moment. You can’t argue with that.

Most dishes on the menu were for two persons or more, so I had to settle for the Arroz de Tamboril (monkfish rice), which was a huge one-pot meal of fresh monkfish, with a chicken like texture, sea shells and prawns. It might not look very big on the photos but I could hardly finish the pot by myself. For a dish like this you must use Carolino, a typical Portuguese rice variety, for the best results. It’s a starchy rice variety, which makes a creamy sauce.

After finishing the monkfish rice I asked for a local digestif. The patron’s eyes lit up and he came back with an earthenware cup of medronho. I don’t drink strong spirits very often but this was both potent (50%) and had a distinctly pleasant taste and smell. Apparently it is made from fruits of the arbutus tree. Until recently it was made like a moonshine by local farmers.

Lisboa Moscavide

On my way back I had half a day to spend in Lisboa between arriving by train at the Entrecampos Station and boarding time. I took a metro to Praça do Comércio, which, apparently, is the most important square of the city. It looks nice enough, but the area is flocked by tourists. I hated it.

Within fifteen minutes I jumped in the metro again in search for something more local. I ended up in the neighbourhood Moscavide, which I traveled through on the first day, because at the beginning of my trip my train to Tunes left at Gare do Oriente.

On the first day I had lunch in a small restaurant near Gare do Oriente: freshly grilled BBQ chicken, rice, fries and salad for just € 7,50 or € 9,00 including a glass of red wine.

Gare do Oriente

I had lunch again in Moscavide in a local bar. I ordered a random soup and was served soup and a bread roll filled with meat. I guess the barman figured that just a soup wasn’t enough. I was so mesmerised by the people around me I forgot to make photos of the scene. There were women, small children, tattooed men with bad teeth, an African man was sitting at my table, stoic like a Buddha, amidst the chaos of crying children and chatting men. Moscavide is my kind of place.