Spicy rice cakes (Tteokbokki) and fish cake soup (Eomukgu) are often sold together. Both are essentially streetfood. This streetfood restaurant in Gwangjin-gu 광진구 in Seoul had only one, bright yellow, table. When I arrived in Seoul on the last day of my journey I was overwhelmed by the city. I first got off at Jonggak metro station in Jongno (종로) district. The tall buildings, the heat and the traffic were relentless. I quickly got back in the metro and travelled for more than half an hour to Gwangjin district. In Gwangjin the city was cut down to human proportions. Off the main streets the houses were only four stories high and I could browse the small coffee shops and restaurants. Tteokbokki and Eomukguk made for a perfect lunch.

When making Tteokbokki and Eomukguk at home you buy the rice cakes and fish cakes ready made. The spicy sauce for the Tteokbokki and the soup for the fish cakes can be made from scratch.